What Counts as a Defect in Garments
A defect is a fault that makes a garment fail its agreed standard. That standard is not what you expected in your head; it is what was written in the specification, shown in the approved sample and referenced in the order. Defective garments can have problems in the fabric, such as holes, shade variation or flaws, in the sewing, such as open seams, skipped stitches or puckering, in the measurements, in the finishing, or in the trims and labels. A garment can also fail because it does not match the approved sample.
It helps to separate a defect from a difference of taste. If the pocket is placed where the specification said, but you now prefer another position, that is a change, not a defect. If the colour is within the agreed tolerance, a small difference is normal. Handling defective garments fairly begins with checking the fault against the documents, which is why a clear specification and purchase order are worth the effort before bulk begins.
Our common garment defects guide describes typical faults and their causes, and it is a useful reference when you describe a problem to a supplier.
First Steps When Defective Garments Arrive
Do not discard packaging and do not wash or alter the garments. Keep the cartons, the labels and the packing list. Note the date of receipt, the carton numbers and the lot or style numbers. Photograph the sealed cartons before opening them if you can, because it shows the condition they arrived in. Then open and inspect a representative sample of the delivery, not only the pieces that look worst, so you know how widespread the problem is.
Use a sampling method that matches your order terms. If your purchase order references an AQL level, the AQL sample size table shows how many pieces to check and how many defects are acceptable. Count the defective garments in the sample, classify each fault and compare the result with the allowed limit. Without a method, the discussion becomes a matter of opinion, but with a count the supplier can see the evidence is fair.
What to do in the first days after delivery
- 1Keep everythingCartons, labels, packing list and delivery paperwork
- 2Record the basicsDate received, carton, lot and style numbers
- 3Check a sample properlyUse the AQL method written into the order
- 4Photograph and measureClear photos, with a tape measure where size is the issue
- 5Classify the faultsCritical, major or minor under the agreed standard
- 6Tell the supplier promptlySend the evidence in writing within the agreed claim period
A simplified method. Follow the terms in your own order and contract.
Building the Evidence: Photos, Measurements and Tests
Good evidence makes a claim easy to accept. Take clear photos of each type of fault, with the whole garment and a close-up. Include the label, so the style and size are visible. Add a ruler or tape for size or shape issues. For fabric or colour problems, photograph in neutral daylight, and keep a physical sample of the faulty piece. Number the photos and list them in a simple table or spreadsheet that links each image to a carton, a style and a fault.
For problems that are hard to see, a laboratory test report is stronger than opinion. Test methods for shrinkage, colour fastness and other properties are published by bodies such as the AATCC, and our garment testing guide explains what to ask for. Compare each failing result with the standard written in your order, and send the report with the claim. Evidence that sits beside the order terms leaves little to argue about.
Evidence to collect for a defect claim
| Type of fault | Evidence to gather | Compare against |
|---|---|---|
| Sewing fault, such as an open seam | Photo of the fault and the whole garment | Specification and approved sample |
| Measurement outside tolerance | Measured values with the method used | Size chart and tolerance in the specification |
| Fabric flaw or shade difference | Photo in neutral light and a retained piece | Approved fabric and shade standard |
| Wrong label, trim or packing | Photo of the item next to the specification | Bill of materials and packing instructions |
| Shrinkage or colour fastness failure | Laboratory test report | Test standard and limit named in the order |
A general guide. Use the standard that your own order and specification name.
Classifying the Fault and Comparing It With the Order Terms
Many inspection standards group faults into critical, major and minor. A critical defect is one that makes the garment unsafe or unusable, for example a sharp object or a legal labelling failure. A major defect is likely to lead to rejection by the customer, such as a hole or a wrong size. A minor defect is a small departure that would not normally affect use. The exact definitions are set by the standard in your order, so check them. The garment quality control and AQL inspection guide explains how these classes link to acceptance limits.
Then compare the result with the order terms. Did the garment match the approved sample? Did the purchase order name a quality standard, a claim period and a remedy? If you have a clothing purchase order with these terms, the claim follows the agreed route. If it is silent, rely on the specification and sample, and agree the process in writing. Between businesses in the UK, the Sale of Goods Act 1979 on legislation.gov.uk sets implied terms about goods matching a sample or description and being of satisfactory quality, but the contract and where it is governed can change the position. This is not legal advice, and a solicitor can help with a larger dispute.
How each class of defect tends to affect the claim
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Likelihood of rejection | Need for urgent action | Weight of evidence needed | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Critical defect | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Major defect | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Minor defect | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on common practice, not measured results.
Writing the Claim and Asking for a Remedy
Send the claim in writing, in a calm and factual tone. State the order number, the style, the delivery date, the number of defective garments found in the sample and how you counted them. Attach the photos, measurements and any test reports. Say what the standard was and how the garments fail it. Then state the remedy you are asking for. Common remedies are replacement of the faulty pieces, rework or repair, a credit or discount against the order or, in serious cases, refusal and return of the goods.
Be reasonable about the remedy. A few minor faults in a large delivery may call for repair or a small credit, while a widespread major fault justifies rework of the whole lot or a replacement run. Ask the supplier for a root-cause explanation and a corrective action, so the problem does not repeat. A fair supplier will want to protect the relationship, and a claim that is organised and polite is easier to resolve. Keep a record of every reply, because the written record is what you will rely on if the discussion drags on.
Remedies and when each one tends to fit
| Remedy | Best suited to | Points to agree |
|---|---|---|
| Rework or repair | Fixable faults such as loose threads or open seams | Who pays, the deadline and a re-check |
| Replacement pieces | Faults that cannot be repaired | Timing, shipping cost and the quality of the remake |
| Credit or discount | Minor faults where the goods can still be sold | The amount and how it is applied to the order |
| Rejection and return | Widespread or critical faults | Return shipping, refund and the effect on the next order |
A general guide. The right remedy depends on the fault, the timing and the order terms.
Rework or repair vs replacement or credit as a remedy
Rework or repair
- Rework: the goods are corrected without a full remake
- Rework: often faster than replacing the whole lot
- Rework: keeps the existing fabric and trims
Replacement or credit
- Replacement or credit: suits faults that cannot be repaired
- Replacement or credit: gives clear financial closure
- Replacement or credit: may delay delivery or reduce stock
A general comparison. Choose by fault type, timing and what the order terms allow.
Where Defective Garments Usually Come From
Understanding the likely cause helps you ask the right questions and prevent a repeat. Defective garments can start in the fabric, in cutting, in sewing, in finishing or in packing. Often the cause is a gap in the specification or a missed inspection point, not carelessness. The chart below is an illustration, with placeholder percentages, of how causes might be spread. It is not survey data and will differ for every order.
Illustrative split of where defective garments originate
Placeholder split, not data
- Sewing and construction35%
- Fabric and shade25%
- Measurement and fit20%
- Finishing, trims and packing20%
An illustration with placeholder percentages to show that faults come from several stages. It is not survey data.
Preventing Claims Before They Happen
The easiest claim to handle is the one that never arises. A clear specification, an approved pre-production sample and an inspection before shipment reduce the number of defective garments that reach you. A pre-shipment inspection checks the finished goods while they are still at the factory, so faults can be fixed before the goods leave. Our pre-shipment inspection guide explains how it works, and the bulk production vs sample guide shows how to keep bulk matched to the sample.
Track performance across orders. A repeated fault from the same supplier tells you more than one incident. A supplier scorecard, as described in our supplier performance scorecard guide, records defect rates, on-time delivery and communication, and helps you decide who to keep. For a deeper look at the samples that set the standard, read the garment sample types guide.
Defect claim checklist
- Cartons, labels and packing list kept, with receipt date noted
- A sample checked using the AQL method written in the order
- Photos of each fault type, with the label visible
- Measurements and test reports where relevant
- Faults classified as critical, major or minor
- Comparison with the approved sample, specification and order terms
- Claim sent in writing within the agreed period
- Remedy stated, root cause requested and replies recorded
A general list. Follow the terms in your own contract.
How Ruhrose Supports Quality and Claims
Ruhrose develops hoodies, fleece, jersey, denim and woven casualwear with production in Bangladesh and UK buyer support. We work to reduce defective garments by confirming the specification, approving a pre-production sample and checking the goods before bulk leaves, and if a problem is found, we look at it with you against the agreed sample and order. We do not publish prices or minimums here, because they depend on the fabric and quantity. To discuss your order, visit Ruhrose and send the details.