What a Drawstring Is and Why the Details Matter
A drawstring is a cord, tape or lace that runs through a channel in a garment so the wearer can tighten or loosen an opening. On hoodies it controls the hood opening; on joggers and sweatpants it adjusts the waist; on jackets, shorts and bags it can adjust a hem or a neckline. In the trade you will also hear drawcord, which means the same thing, and the word cord is used here for the strand itself.
Because a drawstring is handled constantly, small decisions show up quickly in the finished product. A cord that is too thin slips back into its channel. Ends that are poorly finished fray after a few washes. Eyelets that are too small make the cord hard to pull through, and the wrong colour of cord can bleed onto a pale hoodie in the wash. Each of these is a specification problem rather than a factory problem, which is why the details deserve a line in your technical pack.
The figures above are structural, not statistical: they describe the components you need to think about. The rest of the guide takes them in turn, starting with the cord itself. For the garments these usually appear on, see our guides to custom hoodie manufacturing and sweatpants and joggers.
Drawstring Types: Flat, Round, Tubular and Rope
The cord is the part customers see and feel, so it sets much of the garment's character. Flat cords look sporty and lie neatly against the body; round cords look classic and slide easily through channels; tubular and rope styles add a thicker, more premium look. The material matters as well, as cotton, polyester and blends each handle and wash differently.
Drawstring types compared
| Type | Look and feel | Typical use | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flat woven | Flat tape, sporty, sits flat on a waistband | Joggers, sweatpants, shorts | Twisting inside the channel; edges can fray if poorly cut |
| Round braided | Smooth round cord with a woven surface | Hoodies, jackets | Stretching or thinning with heavy use |
| Tubular (hollow) | Soft, rounded, slightly flat when pulled | Hoodies, loungewear | Can flatten and look limp if the weave is loose |
| Rope or twisted | Thicker, textured, premium look | Heavyweight hoodies, streetwear | Unravelling at the cut end unless the end is finished well |
| Elastic cord | Stretchy round cord | Hem adjusters, toggles, kids and bag trims | Loses stretch with age; different rules may apply on children's wear |
| Cotton tape | Soft, natural, matte | Loungewear, casual joggers | Shrinks in the wash; cotton can fade or bleed |
General characteristics of common drawstring types. Specific performance depends on the cord construction and the supplier.
Material choice follows the garment. Cotton cord feels soft and ties well but can shrink or bleed colour in the wash. Polyester cord holds colour and shape through repeated washing and is usually the safer option on white or pale garments, though it can feel slicker. Blends sit between the two. If the garment is washed after dyeing, as many hoodies are, the cord should be tested with it.
Aglets, Cord Ends and Cord Stops
The end of the cord is where wear shows first. If a cord is cut and left raw, the yarns will unravel in the wash. Cord ends are therefore finished in one of several ways, and the choice affects appearance, safety, cost and durability. An aglet is the small sleeve fitted over the end of a cord, the same part as on a shoelace.
Cord end and aglet options
| End type | What it is | Strengths | Limits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Metal aglet | Crimped metal tip, often brass or zinc alloy with a finish | Premium look, easy to thread, durable | Can rust or tarnish if the finish is poor; heavy; can mark fabric |
| Plastic aglet | Moulded or heat-shrunk plastic tip | Light, colour-matched easily | Can crack or fall off; looks less premium |
| Silicone or rubber tip | Soft moulded tip, often branded | Soft touch, custom shape and logo possible | Needs a mould for custom shapes; can collect lint |
| Knotted end | Cord tied in a simple knot | No hardware, soft, no metal to rust | Knot can loosen; can pull back into the channel if small |
| Heat-cut or sealed | Cut and melted to seal synthetic fibres | Lowest cost, no hardware | Can feel hard or sharp; limited to synthetic cords |
| Printed or moulded tag end | Flat end with logo detail | Branding on a visible trim | Higher setup effort; check wash durability of any print |
Qualitative comparison. Finishes, plating quality and mould tooling vary by trim supplier.
A cord stop or toggle adds a locking point so the cord stays where the wearer sets it. Stops are common on jackets and bags and are sometimes used on hoods. Check that the stop does not snag, that its hole fits the cord and that any spring is protected from corrosion. On garments for children the use of stops and the length of free cord is a safety question, covered later in this guide.
Eyelets, Grommets and Channels
The cord has to enter and leave the garment cleanly. On a hoodie it normally passes through two eyelets or holes at the front of the hood; on joggers it usually exits through two eyelets in the front waistband. The cord then runs inside a channel, which is a stitched tunnel in the hood edge or waistband.
Eyelets (also called grommets) can be metal, plastic or simply stitched. A metal eyelet is set through the fabric with a punch and a press, producing a clean, reinforced hole. A stitched or bound hole is made by sewing around a cut slit, which is softer and avoids metal, but needs fabric stability so it does not stretch. Plastic eyelets can be colour-matched and have no corrosion risk. Whichever you choose, the eyelet position should be backed with fusing or tape to stop the fabric tearing, and the inner diameter should be a clear fit for the cord, including when the cord is wet or swollen.
Eyelet and exit options
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Durability | Premium look | Softness | Wash risk | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Metal eyelet | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Plastic eyelet | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Stitched hole | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Bound slit | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings only, based on typical characteristics. Wash risk refers to rust, colour transfer or marking; higher is a greater risk.
The channel width should be slightly wider than the cord so it runs freely, but not so wide that the cord twists. A channel that is too tight causes bunching, and one that is too loose lets the cord flip. Specify the finished channel width and the topstitching on it in your tech pack, not only the cord size.
Where a Drawstring Goes: Hood, Waist and Hem
Placement decides how a drawstring works in daily use. Hood cords are normally centred at the front opening, with equal lengths exiting each side. Waist cords sit at centre front of the waistband and often come with a small internal elastic so the garment stays up even when the cord is loose. Hem cords adjust a jacket or short bottom edge and tend to use smaller cords with stops.
For hoodies, the hood construction matters. A single-layer hood has a simple channel formed by folding the front edge; a lined hood has more bulk and needs a deliberate buttonhole or eyelet to place the exit points. The drawstring should also be long enough to tie without being so long that the ends hang at the waist. Because the ideal length depends on the size, garment cut and style, set the cord length per size in the grade rule rather than leaving it to the factory to guess. Our guide to hoodie fabric weights explains how fabric bulk can change the hood opening and, in turn, how long the cord needs to be.
On joggers, check whether the cord is purely decorative, sitting over an elastic waistband, or functional, used as the main adjuster. A decorative cord can be sewn in place, while a functional one must be threaded and replaceable.
Branding and Colour on a Drawstring
Cords are an inexpensive place to add a brand signal. Options include a contrast colour, a woven or printed pattern, a branded aglet or silicone tip, and a printed or embossed cord. Each option adds a setup or minimum order, and each should be checked for wash durability, so ask for a swatch rather than relying on a drawing.
Colour matching matters more than it appears. A white hoodie with a dyed black cord can show dye migration after washing. A garment-dyed hoodie with a pre-dyed cord can end up with a mismatched shade, because the cord and the fabric take colour differently, especially when one is polyester and the other cotton. Agree a colour reference, such as a Pantone or a physical standard, and check the first sample after washing. Where a design relies on a matching set, ask the factory to approve cord and fabric together.
Drawstring Faults and How to Prevent Them
Most drawstring problems are repeatable, which means they can be designed out. The table below lists the faults that appear most often on hoodies and joggers, what causes them and how to prevent them at specification stage.
Common drawstring faults
| Fault | Likely cause | Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| Cord pulls back into channel | No end stop; cord too short; ends small or knotted loosely | Use aglets or larger knots; set cord length per size; sew a bar tack at the centre |
| Frayed or unravelled ends | Unsealed cut, loose braid, no aglet | Seal or fit aglets; test a washed sample |
| Twisting inside the channel | Flat cord in a wide channel | Narrow the channel or choose round cord |
| Eyelet tears the fabric | Eyelet set without backing; wrong size | Fuse or tape the setting area; match eyelet size to fabric |
| Rust or marks from aglets | Poor plating or untested alloy | Ask for a wash test; choose coated or plastic for pale colours |
| Colour bleeds onto fabric | Unstable dye in cord | Test colour fastness to washing with the fabric together |
| Cord shrinks and puckers the hood | Untreated cotton cord | Pre-shrink the cord or pick polyester or blend |
General causes and preventions; specific causes vary by garment and supplier.
Faults that show up only after washing are the costliest, because they appear after a customer has bought the item. That is why the final inspection step should include a washed sample, not only a dry one. Our quality control and AQL guide explains how inspection points are set.
Safety on Children's Clothing
Cords and drawstrings on children's clothing are regulated because they can catch in doors, vehicles and playground equipment. BS EN 14682 is the standard that covers cords and drawstrings on children's clothing. Requirements differ by age group, garment type and position, and they can change, so confirm the current UK requirements with your factory, a test house or Trading Standards before you finalise a design.
This guide does not set out the detailed requirements, and you should not rely on a general guide for them. What it can say is that a drawstring on a children's hoodie or jogger is a design decision to settle at the start, not at the end. In some cases the safe route is to remove the cord entirely and use a fixed channel, elastic or other closure. In others, the specification can include a limit on free cord length, no toggles, or a fixed centre tack. Your factory and a test house can advise on what applies to your garment.
Adult clothing is treated differently from children's clothing, and requirements differ between the two. Do not assume that a garment which is acceptable for adults is acceptable for a child. If you are making school wear, where hoodies and joggers are common, read our school uniform manufacturing guide and raise the drawstring question with the factory at the first sample.
How to Specify a Drawstring in a Tech Pack
A good drawstring specification takes a few lines but removes most of the ambiguity. Give measurements in the units your factory works in, attach a trim card or photo, and tie the spec to the size chart. Our tech pack guide shows where trim details sit in the document.
From brief to approved drawstring
- 1Choose the cordDecide on flat, round, tubular or rope, plus the material, width or diameter and colour.
- 2Choose the endsSelect aglet type, finish and colour, or knot or tip, and say whether it carries branding.
- 3Set the exitsSpecify eyelet type, size, finish and exact position on the garment, with backing.
- 4Set the channelGive the finished channel width, the stitching and the tack or bartack at the centre.
- 5Sample, wash and testCheck the first sample after washing for fraying, bleed and rust, then approve.
Drawstring specification checklist
- Cord type, material, width or diameter, and colour reference.
- Cord length per size, written into the grade table.
- End finish: aglet type and material, knot, tip or heat seal.
- Eyelet or hole type, inside diameter, finish and measured position.
- Backing or fusing at the exit points.
- Channel finished width, topstitching and any centre bar tack.
- Branding on cord or end, with a swatch for approval.
- Wash test result on the cord, ends and eyelets together with the garment.
- Children's clothing: confirmation of current UK requirements from factory or test house.
Keep a physical sample of the approved cord and ends on file. When you re-order, the same trim card avoids small changes in supplier or finish that customers notice.
How Ruhrose Approaches Drawstrings
Hoodies and joggers sit at the core of what Ruhrose develops, with production in Bangladesh and UK buyer support, so drawstring detail is a routine part of sampling rather than an afterthought. We ask for the cord, ends, eyelet and channel to be settled on the first sample, and checked again after a wash. For children's or school garments we raise the cord question at the start and recommend you confirm current UK requirements with a test house. If you are comparing trim options across a range, our guide to trims and hardware shows how metal parts are specified in other garment types.