Fleece Fabric: What It Is and Why There Are Two Kinds
Fleece fabric is a knitted fabric with a soft, lofty surface raised by brushing, and the word is used for two quite different products. Polar fleece is a polyester knit, brushed on one or both sides, used for light jackets, mid-layers and blankets. Brushed-back fleece, often called cotton fleece, is a cotton or cotton-polyester jersey with a looped back that has been brushed into a soft pile, and it is the fabric behind most hoodies, sweatshirts and joggers. A brand that asks for "fleece" without saying which has not yet specified anything.
The rest of this guide covers how fleece is made, the main types, typical weights, how it compares with French terry, and what to specify so the bulk matches the sample.
How Fleece Fabric Is Made: Knitting, Brushing, Finishing
Fleece starts as a knit. For cotton-rich hoodie fleece, a circular knitting machine uses three yarns: a face yarn that forms the smooth outside, a binding yarn that ties the layers together and a thicker, loosely twisted yarn that forms loops on the back. At that stage the fabric is essentially a loopback jersey. It becomes fleece when the back is brushed.
From yarn to brushed fleece
- 1KnitA circular machine knits face, binding and loop yarns into a tube of loopback jersey.
- 2DyeThe fabric is relaxed and dyed. Colour is usually applied before brushing.
- 3BrushRollers covered in fine wire teeth lift the loop yarn into a soft pile on the back.
- 4Shear and finishThe pile may be trimmed for evenness, then treated with anti-pill and softening finishes.
- 5TestWeight, shrinkage and pilling are checked before the roll goes to cutting.
Simplified sequence. Polyester polar fleece is knitted and brushed in a similar way, often on both sides.
Each stage affects the result. A heavier loop yarn gives a deeper pile, a harder brush makes the surface fluffier but also weakens the loops, and the dyeing route changes how much the fabric shrinks. This is why two fleeces with the same GSM can feel and wear differently.
Types of Fleece: Polar, Micro, Sherpa, Brushed and Cotton
The names below are used loosely in the trade, so always confirm fibre, weight and finish rather than relying on the label alone. The table groups the types a clothing brand is most likely to meet.
Fleece fabric types compared
| Type | Fibre | Character | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polar fleece | Polyester | Warm, light for its bulk, quick drying, brushed on one or both sides | Mid-layers, light jackets, blankets |
| Microfleece | Polyester, finer yarn | Thin, smooth and light; less warmth | Base and mid-layers, liners, accessories |
| Sherpa or borg fleece | Usually polyester | Deep pile like sheep wool on one side, flat knit on the other | Collar and hood linings, jackets, blankets |
| Brushed-back fleece | Cotton, cotton-polyester | Smooth face, soft brushed back; warm with a natural handfeel | Hoodies, sweatshirts, joggers |
| Cotton fleece | Mostly or fully cotton | Softer and more breathable; can shrink more and pill if the yarn is poor | Premium hoodies and loungewear |
| Recycled fleece | Polyester from recycled content | Similar to standard polyester fleece when well made | Outerwear, uniforms, sustainability-led lines |
Summary of common fleece types. Handfeel, weight and quality vary by supplier, so always confirm with a sample.
For a fleece hoodie, the brushed-back cotton-polyester family is by far the most common, usually in a cotton-rich blend. For a mid-layer jacket, polar fleece is the usual choice. We compare cotton and polyester in more depth in cotton vs polyester.
Fleece GSM: Typical Weights by Type
Fleece GSM is the main number that sorts a light layer from a heavy one. GSM stands for grams per square metre, and for fleece it usually describes the finished fabric, brush included. Our fabric GSM guide explains how to measure and compare it.
Typical fleece GSM by type
Typical ranges, grams per square metre
Typical ranges only. Weight varies by product, factory and finish, so confirm the exact GSM and tolerance for any fabric.
A midweight brushed-back fleece sits in the middle of the hoodie band, and heavyweight streetwear hoodies sit near the top. A higher fleece GSM usually means more warmth, more structure and more cost, but also more weight to ship and a heavier feel when worn.
Fleece vs French Terry vs Loopback
Buyers often confuse these because they share the same front and differ only on the inside. French terry has small unbrushed loops on the back. Fleece has the same loops, brushed into a soft pile. Loopback is a trade term that is often used for terry-type knits with unbrushed loops, though suppliers do not use it consistently, so ask for a photo of the reverse side.
Fleece vs French terry vs loopback
| Factor | Fleece (brushed back) | French terry | Loopback |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back of fabric | Soft brushed pile | Unbrushed loops | Unbrushed loops; term used loosely |
| Warmth | Higher | Lower to medium | Lower to medium |
| Breathability | Medium | Higher | Higher |
| Season | Autumn and winter | Spring, summer and layering | Spring, summer and layering |
| Printing and embroidery | Good; the pile can lift ink on very soft finishes | Good, with a smooth face | Good, with a smooth face |
| Pilling risk | Higher unless finished well | Lower | Lower |
| Typical weight | Mid to heavy | Light to mid | Light to mid |
General tendencies only. Check the exact fabric with a swatch and the supplier's specification.
A good rule is to choose French terry for lighter, year-round garments and fleece when warmth is the purpose. Our sweatshirt fabric guide shows where each sits among the wider family of knits.
Indicative Ratings: Which Fleece for Which Job?
The matrix compares five fabrics on properties that matter in use. It is a simplification, but it shows the main trade-off: the warmest and softest fleeces tend to breathe least and pill most, which is why the right choice depends on the garment.
Fleece types on a five-point scale
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Polar fleece | Microfleece | Sherpa | Cotton-rich brushed fleece | French terry | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Warmth | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Softness | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Breathability | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Pilling resistance (standard finish) | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Quick drying | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Cotton-like handfeel | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on typical fabric/process characteristics, not laboratory results.
Use the ratings to shortlist, then sample. A well-finished fleece with a good yarn will outperform a poor one in the same category.
Choosing Fleece for a Hoodie or Joggers
For hoodies, joggers and matching sets, the decision usually comes down to weight, blend and feel. A cotton-rich blend keeps the soft, natural handfeel customers expect, while a small polyester share improves shape retention and cuts shrinkage. A heavier fleece gives the structured, boxy look popular in streetwear but costs more per garment and adds to freight weight.
Joggers add a second consideration, because the legs face more abrasion and the cuffs need rib that recovers. If you are making a set, the top and bottom should come from the same fabric lot so the shade and shrinkage match, a point we expand on in our tracksuit and joggers manufacturer guide. Ask for the swatch of the exact fleece fabric before you approve the sample, because a stock swatch may differ from the bulk.
Pilling and Anti-Pill Finishing
Pilling is the formation of small balls of fibre on the surface of a fabric, and fleece is especially prone to it because the whole surface is made of loose fibre ends. Rubbing during wear and washing tangles those ends into pills. Polyester fibres are strong, so pills tend to stay attached rather than wear away, which is why cheap polyester fleece can look tired quickly.
Anti-pill finishing reduces the problem. Common routes include using better, longer-fibre yarn, singeing or shearing the surface, treating with enzymes to remove loose fibre (biopolishing), and applying finishes during dyeing. None of them removes pilling entirely. The standard way to check is a Martindale pilling test, which rubs a sample and grades the result on a five-point scale. Ask your factory which method it uses and what grade it targets, and compare bulk against the approved sample.
A fleece called "anti-pill" can mean very different things. Ask what the treatment is, request pilling test results on your colour, and check a washed sample as well as a new one. Dark colours show pilling most.
Care and Shrinkage of Fleece
Care depends on the fibre. Polyester fleece tolerates frequent washing but dislikes high heat, which can flatten the pile and make the surface harsh. Cotton-rich fleece shrinks more, especially in length, unless it has been pre-shrunk by compacting or the garment pattern allows for it. Wash cool, turn garments inside out and avoid fabric softener on polyester, which can coat the fibres.
Fleece specification checklist
- Fabric type named: polar, micro, sherpa, brushed-back or cotton fleece.
- Composition written as exact percentages.
- Finished GSM with the tolerance the factory works to.
- Anti-pill treatment named, with a pilling test result.
- Shrinkage tested on the exact colour, in length and in width.
- Care instructions written to match the fabric.
- Rib trims (cuffs, hem) matched to the body fabric in shade and fibre.
Shrinkage and pilling both appear in our garment testing guide, which lists what to ask for before approving bulk.
Recycled Fleece and Sustainability
Recycled polyester fleece, often made from used plastic bottles or textile waste, is widely used by brands that want a lower-impact option. It keeps the performance of standard polyester fleece and diverts material from landfill, although its overall benefit depends on the source, the energy used and how long the garment lasts. Claims should be backed by certificates for the recycled content, not just a marketing label.
Fleece also raises a wider issue: polyester fabrics shed tiny microfibres in washing, and brushed surfaces can shed more. Mitigations include choosing tightly knitted, well-finished fabric, washing less often and using a filter bag, but the research is still developing and no fabric is shed-free. Cotton-rich fleece avoids that problem but has its own growing and processing footprint. Our guide to sustainable fabrics goes further.
How Ruhrose Approaches Fleece Fabric
Ruhrose develops hoodies, sweatshirts and joggers for UK buyers, mostly in cotton-rich brushed-back fleece and French terry, with development and production in Bangladesh. We agree the fleece fabric, weight, anti-pill finish and rib trims with you, and sample before bulk. Technical polar fleece jackets and performance mid-layers are outside our core, so if that is your product we will say so early. For hoodie projects, start with our custom hoodie manufacturer guide.