What Are Points of Measure in Garment Specification?
Points of measure are the named positions on a garment where a measurement is taken, such as chest width, body length or sleeve length. Each point has a description of exactly where to start, where to finish and how to lay the garment, so that two people measuring the same garment get the same number. Without that description, a chest of 54 centimetres may mean two different things to you and to the factory.
Garment points of measure sit at the centre of the tech pack, because they turn a design into numbers. They feed the size chart, the pattern, the sample check and the final inspection. When a bulk order is rejected for being the wrong size, the cause is often not poor sewing but unclear points of measure.
For the wider document the table belongs in, see our guide to the tech pack and the steps in how to make a clothing tech pack.
How Garments Are Measured: Flat, Relaxed and Stretched
The standard method is to lay the garment flat on a table, smooth it without stretching it and measure straight lines between the defined points. Widths such as chest or waist are usually measured across the garment, and some charts show half of the circumference, while others double it. State which one you use, because it is a very common source of confusion.
Knit garments need extra care. A jersey t shirt stretches, so measuring it pulled gives a different number from measuring it relaxed. Define the state in the specification, usually relaxed and flat, and say how long to leave the garment before measuring. Rib is the exception: for cuffs and neck openings you may state both a relaxed and a stretched measurement. If you measure after laundering, use a consistent method, since dimensional change test methods are published by AATCC.
Measuring conditions to state in the spec
| Condition | What to state | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Garment position | Laid flat, smoothed, no stretch | Prevents different numbers from different handling |
| Width measure | Half circumference or full circumference | Doubling mistakes cause wrong sizes |
| Knit stretch | Relaxed measurement unless stated | Stretch changes jersey dimensions |
| Rib openings | Relaxed and stretched, if both matter | Cuffs and necks must open enough |
| Wash state | Before wash or after wash, or both | Shrinkage changes the final number |
A general reference. Match the method to your own chart and agree it with the factory.
Core Points of Measure for a T Shirt or Hoodie
Most tops use a similar set of points of measure. Chest width is measured across the garment a set distance below the underarm. Body length is measured from a fixed point, usually the highest point of the shoulder next to the neck, down to the hem. Shoulder width runs across the back from one shoulder seam to the other, and sleeve length runs from the shoulder seam or neck point to the end of the sleeve.
Neck measurements need a clear start and end. Neck width is measured across the neck opening between the shoulder seams, and neck drop is measured vertically from the shoulder line to the lowest point of the neckline. Hems and cuffs need a width, and a hood needs a height and width. The names below are common, but they are only useful if each has a written method.
Typical points of measure for a top
| Point | Where to measure | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Chest width | Across the garment, a set distance below the armhole | Say half or full |
| Body length | From the high point of the shoulder at the neck to the hem | Front or back, state which |
| Shoulder width | Across the back, seam to seam | Drop shoulder styles need a note |
| Sleeve length | From the shoulder seam or neck point to the sleeve end | State the start point |
| Sleeve opening | Across the sleeve end, flat | Relaxed or stretched for rib |
| Neck width | Between the shoulder seams across the opening | Measure at the seam line |
| Neck drop | Vertically from the shoulder line to the neckline base | Front and back separately |
| Hem width | Across the bottom edge, flat | Rib hems need a stretched figure too |
A general list. Add or remove points to suit the style, and describe each one in the tech pack.
How Points of Measure Are Spread Across a Garment
Looking at the table above, the points of measure for a top fall into four areas: the body, the sleeves, the neck and the shoulders. The split is useful because each area is usually checked at a different stage. Body points drive the overall fit, sleeve points depend on the sleeve type, neck points depend on the neckline and shoulder points depend on the seam position.
The eight example points by garment area
Eight example points
- Body38%
- Sleeve25%
- Neck25%
- Shoulder12%
A count of the eight points in the top table: three body points (chest, body length, hem), two sleeve points, two neck points and one shoulder point. Percentages are rounded, and this is a map of the example, not an industry norm.
When you add points for a new style, such as a hood or pocket, you are adding a new area and should write a new set of descriptions for it. Keep one master list of points of measure so that new styles reuse the same wording wherever the same point appears.
Points of Measure for Bottoms and Woven Garments
Trousers and jeans use a different set of points. Waist is measured across the top edge of the waistband, front rise runs from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband, and inseam runs from the crotch to the hem along the inner leg. Thigh, knee and leg opening are measured across the leg at set distances. Our guide to the jeans size chart and measurement spec goes through each of these in detail.
Woven shirts and jackets add points such as collar length, cuff circumference and sleeve length measured from the shoulder point. The principle is identical: each point has one description and one method, and the factory and the buyer use the same ones. When you add a new garment type, copy the measurement logic but rewrite the descriptions for that product.
How to Write a POM Table That a Factory Can Follow
A good POM table has one row per point, with a code, a name, a written description of the method and a measurement for each size. It also states the tolerance for each point, which is the range of acceptable difference. Tolerances are covered in the garment measurement tolerance guide.
Building a POM table
- 1List the pointsChoose the measurements that decide fit for this style
- 2Describe each oneWrite where to start, where to stop and how to lay the garment
- 3Set the base sizeGive every measurement for the sample size first
- 4Add the gradeState how each point changes from size to size
- 5Add tolerancesGive a plus and minus range for each point
- 6Check with a sampleMeasure the first sample against the table and correct it
A method, not a rule. Adapt the steps to your product.
The base size is the size on which the sample is made, and the other sizes are derived from it by grading, which is explained in the grading and size chart guide. Write the grade rule for each point so that the pattern maker does not need to guess.
Which Points Matter Most for Fit and Returns
Not every measurement is equally important. A few decide whether the garment fits, while others change the look but rarely cause a return. Chest, body length and sleeve length usually drive fit complaints on tops, while waist, rise and inseam do the same on bottoms. If you have to prioritise, put your tightest tolerances and your most careful sample checks on these.
How strongly each point tends to affect fit and returns on a top
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Fit impact | Customer notices | Tolerance should be tight | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chest width | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Body length | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Sleeve length | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Shoulder width | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Neck width | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Hem width | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on common fit experience, not measured results.
If fit returns are a concern, read our guide on how to reduce garment returns from fit and shrinkage, since measurement problems and shrinkage often combine.
Common Mistakes With Points of Measure
The first mistake is leaving the method unwritten, so each person measures differently. The second is mixing half and full figures in the same chart. The third is copying a measurement table from a competitor without checking that the points mean the same on your product. A fourth is forgetting that washing changes the dimensions, so a chart that works for a new sample may not match a washed one.
Another frequent error is changing a measurement in one size and not updating the grade, which makes the size run uneven. Treat the table as a controlled document, with a version number and date, and send the factory the latest version every time. When the sample arrives, measure it at every point and record the result in the same table.
Fixed written points of measure vs informal measuring
Written points
- Everyone measures the same way, so numbers are comparable
- Samples can be checked quickly and objectively
- Disputes can be settled by pointing to the written method
Informal measuring
- Informal measuring is faster at first
- It lets different people reach different figures
- Problems appear late, usually at inspection
A general comparison. The extra effort of writing the method pays back at sample and inspection.
A Checklist for Your Measurement Specification
Before you send a specification to a factory, run through the list below. It catches most of the gaps that lead to a wrong-sized sample.
Points of measure checklist
- Every measurement has a code, a name and a written method
- The table states half or full circumference for each width
- The measuring state is given: flat, relaxed and before or after wash
- The base size and the grade rule for each point are listed
- Tolerances are written for every point that matters to fit
- Rib and stretch openings have relaxed and stretched figures
- A diagram marks the start and end of each measurement
- The version number and date are on the table
A general list. Add anything specific to your product.
How Ruhrose Works With Your Measurements
Ruhrose develops hoodies, fleece, jersey, denim and woven casualwear with production in Bangladesh and UK buyer support. We review your size chart and points of measure, flag unclear descriptions and measure each sample against your table before it goes back to you. We do not publish prices or minimums here, because they depend on the style. The ISO publishes standards on size designation for those who want a formal reference. To discuss a style, visit Ruhrose and send your size chart.