What Is Ripstop Fabric?
Ripstop fabric is a plain-woven cloth in which extra-strong or thicker yarns are woven in at regular intervals, in both the warp and weft directions, to form a visible square grid of small boxes. If the cloth is punctured or nicked, the tear runs along the weak yarns until it meets one of the reinforcing yarns, where it stops. The result is a fabric that stays light but resists the sort of runaway tear that would ruin an ordinary thin woven.
You can usually see a ripstop by looking at it against the light: the reinforcing threads show up as a tiny check or grid pattern, sometimes slightly raised. Ripstop is made from nylon, polyester and cotton or poly-cotton, and the fibre decides most of the behaviour. It is used for lightweight jackets, windshells, packable layers, cargo trousers and shorts, uniform and tactical-style garments, and bags, and is also well known in tents, parachutes and sails.
Below we explain the mechanism, the fibre choices, the thickness system, the finishes and the sewing and testing issues, finishing with a checklist you can use when you ask a factory for a quote.
How Does Ripstop Stop a Tear?
A tear in woven fabric travels by breaking one yarn after another, along a line of least resistance. In ordinary cloth there is nothing to interrupt that line. In ripstop, the reinforcing yarns are thicker or doubled, so they take more force to break, and the tear stalls when it reaches them. The cloth is not tear-proof; it is tear-limited, which keeps damage small and often repairable.
How the grid limits a tear
- 1A nick or snagA small cut, puncture or catch weakens a few yarns.
- 2The tear startsForce is applied and neighbouring yarns break along the weak line.
- 3It reaches the gridThe tear meets a thicker reinforcing yarn that resists breaking.
- 4It stopsDamage is limited to one small box of the grid.
Simplified illustration. Real tear behaviour depends on fibre, weight, coating and the force involved.
The spacing of the grid and the thickness of the reinforcing yarn affect how much damage can occur before a tear stops, which is one reason to ask a supplier for grid spacing and a tear strength figure rather than relying on the word ripstop alone.
Nylon, Polyester and Cotton Ripstop Compared
Fibre is the largest single choice in ripstop fabric. Each fibre changes weight, feel, durability, appearance and what finishes are possible. The table compares the three types you are most likely to meet.
Ripstop fabric by fibre
| Fibre | Character | Strengths | Watch points | Typical garments |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nylon ripstop | Smooth, light, often slightly glossy | Very high strength and abrasion resistance for its weight; packs small | Sensitive to prolonged sunlight; absorbs more water than polyester; melts under a hot iron | Windshells, light jackets, packable layers, bags |
| Polyester ripstop | Smooth, slightly crisper | Good strength; holds colour in sunlight; absorbs little water | Slightly less abrasion-resistant than nylon at the same weight | Shell layers, shorts, linings, lightweight jackets |
| Cotton or poly-cotton ripstop | Matte, natural, softer | Comfortable and breathable; can take garment washing | Heavier; slower to dry; not as light or as packable | Cargo trousers, shorts, casual jackets, uniform wear |
General characteristics. Weight, weave density and finishing change any single row.
For a full comparison of the two synthetic fibres, see our guide to nylon vs polyester. For the natural-fibre trade-offs, our cotton vs polyester guide explains why a cotton or poly-cotton ripstop feels so different.
Indicative Performance Ratings
The ratings below turn those characteristics into a quick comparison of the three ripstop options on the properties that matter most when you choose a fabric for a casual or lightweight garment.
Ripstop options compared
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Nylon | Polyester | Cotton or poly-cotton | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tear resistance for the weight | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Lightness and packability | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Abrasion resistance | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Sunlight stability | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Natural handfeel and comfort | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Water absorption (higher absorbs more) | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on typical fabric/process characteristics, not laboratory results.
A higher score is not always better. Cotton ripstop scores low on lightness but high on comfort, which is exactly why it is used for cargo trousers and shorts rather than packable shells. Pick the column that matches the job.
Denier Explained: How Thick Are the Yarns?
Denier is the unit used to describe the thickness of a filament yarn: it is the weight in grams of 9,000 metres of yarn. A higher denier means a thicker, heavier yarn and usually a heavier, stronger fabric. Ripstop nylon and polyester fabrics are commonly sold by denier, such as 20D or 70D, sometimes with the reinforcing yarn quoted separately.
Typical ripstop denier bands by use
Denier of the base yarn
Typical ranges, varies by product, weave density and supplier. Denier describes yarn thickness only, not fabric weight or quality, so also ask for GSM.
Denier alone does not tell you how heavy or strong the finished fabric is, because weave density matters too. Always ask for both the denier and the finished GSM, and check them against a swatch. Comparing cloths of different fibres is easiest on finished GSM.
Finishes: DWR, Coatings and Calendering
Most synthetic ripstop is finished after weaving to change how it handles water, light and handle. These finishes are separate choices, and each affects cost, feel and care.
Common ripstop finishes
| Finish | What it does | Considerations |
|---|---|---|
| DWR (durable water repellent) | Makes water bead and roll off the surface | Not waterproof; wears off with abrasion and washing and may need reactivating; ask the supplier about the chemistry used |
| PU or silicone coating | Adds a layer that blocks water and reduces airflow | Increases water resistance but reduces breathability; seams need sealing for real waterproofing |
| Calendering | Presses the fabric with heat and pressure | Gives a smoother, flatter surface and can reduce air permeability |
| Garment washing or softening | Relaxes the fabric after sewing | Softer feel and a worn-in look; may remove surface finishes |
| Anti-tear or reinforced weave options | Heavier yarn in the grid | Improves tear stopping at a small weight penalty |
General descriptions. Ask each supplier for the specific finish and its tested performance.
Water repellency and waterproofing are not the same. A DWR-treated ripstop will shed light rain for a while, but a garment is only waterproof if the fabric is coated or laminated and the seams are sealed, and that claim should be backed by a hydrostatic head test.
Where Ripstop Is Used, and What Sits Outside Our Core
Ripstop is chosen where low weight and tear resistance matter more than a soft, natural feel. In clothing, its main roles are as follows.
- Lightweight jackets and shells: usually nylon or polyester with DWR or a light coating.
- Cargo trousers and shorts: cotton or poly-cotton ripstop for durability with a casual finish.
- Uniform and utility wear: hard-wearing ripstop in cotton blends for repeated wear and washing.
- Bags and accessories: heavier nylon or polyester ripstop.
Technical outerwear with certified waterproofing or breathability, performance sportswear and bags are outside the core of what Ruhrose makes, which is hoodies, jersey, denim and woven cotton casualwear. If your project is a technical shell, look for a specialist outerwear or sportswear producer who can supply test reports. Our sportswear and activewear manufacturer guide explains what to look for. Cotton or poly-cotton ripstop for cargo trousers or shorts is a casualwear request that can be discussed, subject to fabric availability.
Sewing Ripstop: Slippage, Puckering and Holes
Ripstop is quick to cut but can be tricky to sew, particularly in nylon and polyester. The fine, smooth filament yarns slide against each other, so seams can slip open under load, a fault called seam slippage. The fix is usually a combination of a suitable stitch density, reinforced or doubled seams at stress points, and, where needed, flat-felled or taped seams. Our guide to hems, seams and finishes covers the seam types.
Puckering happens when the thread is too thick, the tension is too tight, or the needle is too large for a fine cloth. Factories typically use fine needles and thread for light ripstop and take care with feed and pressure. Coated ripstop adds another issue: every needle hole is a potential leak path, so waterproof garments need seam tape or other seam sealing.
Cutting and pressing also differ. Synthetic ripstop can be heat-cut to seal the edge and prevent fraying, but it will melt under a hot iron, so pressing temperatures must be low and checked on a sample. In cotton ripstop, the sewing is more conventional, though the grid can make seams slightly bulky where several layers meet.
Testing Ripstop: What to Ask For
A ripstop garment can look right and still fail in use, so ask for test results that relate to the claims you plan to make. The list below uses the standard test families most mills and labs understand.
- Tear strength: the force needed to continue a tear, using a method such as ISO 13937.
- Seam slippage: resistance of the seam to opening under load, using a method such as ISO 13936.
- Water repellency: a spray rating, using a method such as ISO 4920, both new and after washing.
- Hydrostatic head: resistance to water pressure through the fabric, using a method such as ISO 811, if you are making a waterproof claim.
- Colour fastness: to washing, rubbing and light, using the ISO 105 series.
- Dimensional change: shrinkage after washing, especially for cotton ripstop.
Not every test applies to every garment, and it is worth agreeing in advance which ones matter for yours. Our garment testing guide explains the common tests and how to read them, and AQL inspection covers checks during and after production.
How to Specify Ripstop Fabric: Checklist
A short specification stops a supplier guessing. Include the following in your tech pack or fabric brief, and ask for a swatch that matches before you design around it.
Ripstop fabric specification checklist
- Fibre: nylon, polyester, cotton or poly-cotton, with composition in percentages
- Base yarn denier and reinforcing yarn, or cotton yarn count
- Finished weight in GSM with a tolerance
- Grid spacing, so you know how the pattern will look
- Finish: DWR, coating, calendering or none, and its tested performance
- Tear strength and seam slippage requirements
- Colour reference and approval route, plus colour fastness targets
- Seam and stitch plan for stress points and any seam sealing
- Care instructions that protect the finish and avoid hot pressing
Adapt the list to the garment and ask the supplier which tests it can run.
How Ruhrose Approaches Ripstop Fabric
Ruhrose develops hoodies, jersey, denim and woven cotton casualwear in Bangladesh, with UK buyer support. Cotton and poly-cotton ripstop for cargo trousers, shorts and casual jackets can be discussed, subject to fabric availability, and we sample before bulk. Technical nylon shells, waterproof outerwear and performance sportswear are outside our core, and we will say so early. For a woven alternative that shares the durability, see our twill fabric guide.