Why the Types of Thread Matter in Garment Making
Thread holds a garment together. Every seam, hem and topstitch depends on it, yet it usually represents a tiny share of the product cost. The types of thread you use influence seam strength, stretch, appearance and how well the garment survives washing. A weak or poorly matched thread can ruin a good fabric, while the right choice goes unnoticed.
Buyers often leave thread to the factory, which works when the factory is experienced and the brief is clear. Problems arise with unusual fabrics, contrast topstitching, stretch seams or heavy use. Knowing the main types of thread lets you ask better questions, check that the factory has understood the garment and write a sensible thread line into the tech pack.
Thread works with the stitch and the seam, so read this page with our guides to types of stitches and types of seams.
The Main Types of Thread by Fibre
Polyester thread is the most common choice in garments. It is strong, resists abrasion and shrinkage, and takes colour well. Cotton thread has a natural look and is often used in denim topstitching or for natural-fibre garments, but it is weaker and shrinks more. Nylon thread is strong and elastic, and suits stretch seams, lingerie and heavy-duty items, though it can degrade in sunlight.
Blends and special threads fill specific needs. Core-spun thread wraps polyester or cotton around a polyester core for strength and smooth sewing. Rayon and viscose threads give a shiny finish for embroidery, and metallic threads add decoration. Elastic and textured threads help with stretch hems. Our guide to embroidery digitizing explains where decorative thread is used.
Main types of thread and what a buyer should check
| Type | Typical use | What a buyer should check |
|---|---|---|
| Spun polyester | General seaming on most garments | Strength, colour match and lint |
| Core-spun polyester | Jeans, workwear and heavy seams | Core strength and sewing speed |
| Cotton | Denim topstitching and natural-fibre styles | Shrinkage, strength and colourfastness |
| Continuous filament nylon | Stretch seams, lingerie and heavy-duty items | Elasticity, finish and sunlight exposure |
| Textured polyester | Overlock and coverstitch on knits | Softness, stretch and coverage |
| Rayon or viscose | Decorative and embroidery thread | Sheen, strength and colourfastness |
| Bonded thread | Heavy fabric, leather and upholstery | Thickness, needle size and finish |
A general reference. Always confirm thread type and size with the factory on an approved sample.
Thread Size: Tex and Ticket Numbers
Thread thickness is described with numbers that can be confusing. The tex system gives the weight in grams of one thousand metres of thread, so a higher tex means a thicker thread. Older ticket numbers work the other way: a higher number means a finer thread. Many suppliers show both, for example Tex 27 with Ticket 120.
Choose the size to match the fabric and the seam. Light fabrics and fine seams take finer thread, while heavy fabrics and topstitching need thicker thread. Using a thread that is too thick causes puckering, and one that is too thin can break under stress. The size should also match the needle, which the factory selects. Standards from ISO define thread terms, and our guide to sewing machines in a garment factory explains how machines and needles work together.
Typical thread size by use, in tex (illustrative ranges)
Higher tex means thicker thread
Illustrative ranges for explanation only. Real choices depend on fabric, needle and design, so confirm them on a sample.
Matching Thread to Fabric
A general rule is to match the fibre of the thread to the fibre of the fabric, or to choose polyester for strength when the fabric is a blend. A lightweight cotton shirt sews well with fine polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester, a knit T-shirt needs textured or soft polyester in the loopers and a stretch seam needs a thread that stretches with the fabric.
Thread should never be much stronger than the fabric. If it is, the fabric tears around the seam before the thread breaks, which looks worse and is harder to repair. For denim, core-spun polyester and cotton are common. Our guide to jeans stitching explains how thread choice affects denim seams and topstitching.
How common threads tend to behave
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Strength | Stretch | Shrinkage resistance | Smooth sewing | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spun polyester | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Core-spun polyester | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Cotton | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Nylon filament | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Textured polyester | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on how each thread usually behaves, not laboratory results.
Colour Matching and Contrast Thread
Most garments use thread matched to the fabric, and even small shade differences show on seams and hems. Thread is dyed in lots like fabric, so ask the supplier to approve colour against the fabric swatch. Under different lights, a pair that matches in the factory can look different in a shop, so check in daylight and artificial light.
Contrast topstitching is a design feature, so its colour and size are written in the tech pack with a reference. Dark threads on dark fabric, such as navy on denim, show less wear than light threads. Our guide to making a tech pack explains how to describe thread colour and topstitch details clearly.
Where thread-related quality problems tend to come from (worked example)
Worked example, not an industry average
- Wrong thread strength for the seam24%
- Colour mismatch22%
- Puckering from wrong size20%
- Thread breakage in production18%
- Fading or shrinkage after wash16%
An illustrative split for explanation only. Real problems vary by factory and garment, so treat it as a prompt to check your own inspection data.
Thread Consumption and Cost
Thread use varies by garment. A plain T-shirt needs far less thread than a pair of jeans with heavy topstitching or a jacket with many seams. Stitch type matters too: an overlock or coverstitch uses more thread per centimetre than a lockstitch. Thread cost is small per garment but adds up on large orders, and wasteful consumption can show a factory with poor control.
Ask the factory for an estimate of thread use per garment and for the number of cones needed per order. This also helps plan colour changes and reduce waste. Our guide to garment quality control and AQL inspection explains how seam quality is checked in production.
A route for choosing thread for a new garment
- 1List the fabricsFibre, weight and stretch noted
- 2List the seamsSeam types and stress points marked
- 3Choose thread type and sizeMatched to fabric and stitch
- 4Approve colourThread matched to fabric swatches
- 5Sample and testSeams pulled, washed and checked
A simplified sequence. Real choices are confirmed by the factory on a sample.
Quality Checks and Common Mistakes
Inspection should check seam strength, skipped stitches, thread tension, puckering and colour match. Pull a few seams gently, wash a sample and look again. Seams on stretch garments should be stretched during testing to see whether thread breaks or loops open.
Common mistakes include using a cotton thread on a polyester fabric that will be washed hot, using too thick a thread on lightweight fabric, relying on one thread colour for different fabric lots and forgetting to test sunlight exposure for nylon. Keep a sealed reference of approved thread with the order file.
Another common mistake is leaving thread off the tech pack entirely. The factory then chooses what is in stock, which may change between orders. A short note with thread type, size and colour reference protects consistency across reorders, particularly when you change factory or production line.
Thread points to include in a tech pack
- Thread fibre and structure for each seam type
- Thread size in tex or ticket number
- Thread colour reference for matched and contrast areas
- Topstitch size and stitch length
- Needle size recommended for the fabric
- Shrinkage and colourfastness expectations
- Reinforcement at stress points
- Sample approval and reference kept
A general checklist. Add anything your retailer or sales channel requires.
Questions to Ask a Factory About Thread
Ask which types of thread the factory uses for your fabrics and from which suppliers. A factory that buys from recognised thread makers and can show specifications is usually more consistent than one that buys the cheapest cone available.
Ask also how they check thread quality on arrival, how they store it and how they control colour. These steps are simple and low cost, yet they show how seriously the factory takes the details that hold a garment together.
Polyester thread vs cotton thread for everyday garments
Strengths
- Polyester: strong, durable and resists shrinkage
- Polyester: wide colour range and smooth sewing
- Cotton: natural look that suits natural fabrics
- Cotton: classic choice for denim topstitching
Limits
- Polyester: can look synthetic on natural fabrics
- Polyester: melts under high heat if misused
- Cotton: weaker and shrinks more
- Cotton: fades and wears faster
A general comparison. Core-spun threads combine properties of both.
Questions that help you judge a factory's thread control
| Question | Why it matters | A good answer sounds like |
|---|---|---|
| Which thread brands and types do you use? | Consistency depends on sourcing | Named suppliers and specifications |
| How do you match thread colour? | Mismatch shows on seams | Approval against fabric swatches |
| How do you check seam strength? | Weak seams burst in use | Pull tests and inline checks |
| How do you choose needle and thread size? | Wrong size causes puckering | A chart tied to fabric weight |
| What is your reorder process for thread? | Repeat orders need identical thread | Records of type, size and colour per style |
A general question list. Adapt it to your own style and market.
A Practical Example: Thread for a Stretch Jersey Hoodie
Consider a heavyweight hoodie in cotton fleece with rib cuffs and hem. The side seams and shoulders take an overlock or safety stitch, the hem and cuffs take a coverstitch, and the hood may take a topstitch. Each of these uses a different thread arrangement, and a single cone of the same thread in every place will not do the job well.
A sensible spec uses spun or textured polyester in the loopers, where softness and stretch matter, and a stronger spun polyester in needle positions that carry the load. Drawcord eyelets and pocket corners get bartacks in a heavier thread. The types of thread chosen for each place should be written next to the stitch type, so the factory sees the full picture and the first sample is built correctly.
Test the result by stretching the seams, washing the garment several times and checking for loosened stitches or colour change. If a seam opens, increase the stitch density or change the thread type before bulk. Small changes at this stage cost little, and they prevent returns that would cost far more after the product is on sale.
How Ruhrose Specifies Thread and Stitching
Ruhrose develops jersey, fleece, denim and woven casualwear with production in Bangladesh and buyer support in the UK. We review your fabrics and seams, agree thread type, size and colour, and confirm them on a sample before bulk. We do not publish prices or minimums here, because they depend on style and quantity. Certification such as OEKO-TEX can also cover thread when garments are worn close to the skin. To start a conversation, visit Ruhrose and tell us about your range.