What Is Cashmere?
What is cashmere? It is a natural fibre taken from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, which grow a fine inner layer to survive cold mountain winters. The fibre is combed or shorn from the animal, separated from the coarse outer hair and then cleaned, spun and knitted or woven. Its fineness, warmth for its weight and soft hand are why it sits at the top of the knitwear market.
For a buyer, the real question behind what is cashmere is quality. The word can describe a fibre that is very fine and long, or one that is shorter and coarser, and both may be sold as cashmere. The difference shows up in softness, pilling and how the garment looks after a season. Understanding grade, ply and gauge lets you judge a quote and a sample rather than rely on the label alone.
To compare cashmere with other animal fibres, read our guides to merino wool and wool fabric types.
How Cashmere Is Graded
Cashmere is usually judged by fibre diameter and length. Finer fibres feel softer, and longer fibres spin into stronger yarn that pills less. Fibre diameter is measured in microns, and trade grading commonly separates finer, mid and coarser fibres with matching length ranges. Grade names differ between mills, so ask for the measured diameter and length rather than a letter alone.
Dehairing quality matters too. After combing, coarse guard hairs must be removed, and poor dehairing leaves a prickly yarn that pills quickly. Ask the supplier how it controls dehairing and request a lab report on fibre content and diameter. Our guide on garment testing explains how test reports support a purchase decision.
What fibre grade usually means for a cashmere garment
| Fibre level | Typical effect | What a buyer should check |
|---|---|---|
| Very fine and long | Very soft, light and resistant to pilling | Measured diameter, length and dehairing report |
| Fine and medium length | Soft and warm with moderate pilling resistance | Yarn ply and gauge to support the hand feel |
| Mid-range | Good warmth, less softness | Fit with your price level and care promises |
| Coarser or short fibre | Rougher feel and faster pilling | Whether the garment can truly be labelled cashmere |
| Blends with wool or silk | Lower cost, changed hand feel | Exact ratio on the label and test report |
A general reference. Grading methods vary between mills, so always ask for measured values and approve a sample.
What Drives the Cost of Cashmere
Cashmere costs more than most fibres for several reasons. Each goat produces only a small amount of usable undercoat each year. The fibre needs careful separation and cleaning before spinning, and yield losses are high. Weather, herd health and demand from many markets also influence raw material prices from one season to the next.
Beyond fibre, spinning, knitting and finishing add cost. Fine yarns need slower, more careful knitting, and fully fashioned garments use more machine time than cut and sew pieces. Gauge and ply affect cost too, and a detail such as a complex stitch pattern or a hand-finished neckline adds further labour. A good cashmere quote explains each of these elements.
Where cost tends to sit in a typical cashmere sweater (worked example)
Worked example, not a benchmark
- Raw fibre and dehairing38%
- Spinning and dyeing20%
- Knitting and linking24%
- Finishing and washing10%
- Trims, labels and packing8%
An illustrative split for explanation only. Real cost depends on grade, gauge, factory and quantity, so use it as a prompt for questions and not as an industry average.
Ply, Gauge and Yarn Structure
Ply describes how many strands are twisted together to form a yarn. Two-ply yarn is common in sweaters because it is stronger and more even than single-ply, which is softer but more delicate. Higher ply counts give a firmer, heavier knit. Gauge, the number of stitches per unit of width, decides how fine or chunky the finished fabric looks.
These choices work together. A fine gauge with two-ply yarn gives a smooth, lightweight sweater, while a coarse gauge with four-ply yarn gives a thick, warm one. Match gauge and ply to the product idea, and do not assume one spec fits every style. Our guide to knitwear manufacturers explains how factories plan these decisions.
Typical sweater weight by construction, in grams (illustrative ranges)
Finished garment weight, medium size
Illustrative ranges for explanation only. Real weight depends on size, gauge, ply and style.
Cashmere Blends and Alternatives
Pure cashmere is not always the right choice. Blends with wool, silk or nylon can lower cost, add strength and improve shape retention. A small amount of nylon, for example, can reduce wear at elbows and cuffs. Blends must be labelled clearly, and their exact percentages should be tested, because the ratio affects both feel and price.
Alternatives are worth a look too. Fine merino offers a similar warmth with a lower price and easier care. Lambswool, alpaca and mohair give different textures. Our guide to merino wool for clothing brands shows how it compares, and a sample comparison in your own colours is the best way to decide.
How cashmere and alternatives tend to behave
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Softness | Warmth for weight | Pilling resistance | Ease of care | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fine cashmere | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Cashmere wool blend | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Fine merino wool | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Lambswool | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Cotton knit | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on how each fibre usually behaves, not laboratory results.
Pilling, Shrinkage and Care
Pilling is the small balls that form on the surface of knitwear. All cashmere pills to some degree, because short fibres work loose with friction, but finer, longer fibres and better spinning reduce it. Pilling is not a sign of poor quality by itself, and it can be removed with a comb. Heavy, persistent pilling shortly after wear does point to weak fibre or yarn.
Shrinkage and felting are the other risks. Hot water and agitation can shrink or felt cashmere, so care labels should recommend gentle hand washing or dry cleaning according to the finish. Our guide to preventing pilling and rib recovery problems explains the checks that apply to knitwear in general.
A route for testing a cashmere sample before bulk
- 1Check fibre contentLab report on composition and diameter
- 2Test pillingAbrasion test on a finished swatch
- 3Test shrinkageWash a swatch and measure before and after
- 4Wear a sampleWear and wash the garment several times
- 5Approve or adjustConfirm the spec or change yarn and finish
A simplified sequence. Individual test methods follow recognised standards.
Sourcing Cashmere Responsibly
Cashmere comes mainly from Inner Mongolia in China, Mongolia, Afghanistan, Iran and a few other regions. Concerns include grazing pressure on pasture land, animal welfare and traceability. Buyers increasingly ask where the fibre came from and whether the herders are covered by a recognised standard.
Ask the supplier for traceability documents, not general statements. Certification schemes exist for responsible cashmere, and Textile Exchange publishes standards for responsible fibres. Look for OEKO-TEX as well if tested dyes and finishes matter in your market. Our guide to verifying sustainability claims explains how to check them.
What to ask before sourcing cashmere
- Fibre origin and who handled it
- Fibre diameter and length measured on a lab report
- Dehairing process and quality control
- Yarn ply, count and gauge for each style
- Blend percentages written on the spec and label
- Pilling and shrinkage test results
- Certificates, with scope and date
- Care label wording and sample wash result
A general checklist. Add anything your market or retailer requires.
Common Mistakes When Buying Cashmere
The first mistake is choosing on price alone. Very low cashmere prices usually mean short or coarse fibre, heavy blending or weak control of dehairing. The garment may look fine on the rail and then pill or lose shape after a few wears. Ask for the fibre report and compare it with the quote.
The second mistake is judging hand feel at the wrong moment. Many cashmere samples are softened with finishing treatments that wash out, so a sample that feels soft in the box may feel different after laundering. Always wash a swatch before approving the product.
The third mistake is treating care as an afterthought. A garment that must be hand washed will suit some customers and annoy others, so decide your care promise early and test the sample against it. Clear care labels reduce returns and complaints, and they protect your reputation for a premium product.
Finally, remember that what is cashmere in a shop is not always what is cashmere in a lab report. Labels in many markets require the fibre content to be stated accurately, and a fibre test is the only reliable way to confirm it. Build testing into your sampling plan, keep reports with the order file, and treat any change of yarn supplier as a reason to test again before bulk. Over a season, this habit protects both customers and margin.
Pure cashmere vs a cashmere blend for a first range
Strengths
- Pure: highest softness and a premium image
- Pure: strong story for gift and luxury buyers
- Blend: lower cost and better durability
- Blend: easier care and shape retention
Limits
- Pure: high cost and careful care needs
- Pure: more pilling risk on cheaper grades
- Blend: less luxurious feel
- Blend: the label must be accurate and clear
A general comparison. The right choice depends on customer, price point and brand promise.
Questions to Ask a Cashmere Supplier
A short list of questions shows how well a supplier controls quality. Ask about fibre origin, grading method, dehairing, spinning and finishing. Ask for lab reports and a sample garment in your colour, and compare the sample with a bulk lot before approving production.
Also ask how they handle faults and late delivery. Knitwear lead times depend on yarn availability and dye lots, so a supplier who plans ahead is usually more reliable than one who promises quick turnarounds without details.
Questions that help you judge a cashmere supplier
| Question | Why it matters | A good answer sounds like |
|---|---|---|
| What are the fibre diameter and length? | They decide softness and pilling | Measured values supported by a lab report |
| How do you control dehairing? | Guard hairs cause prickle and pilling | A described process with inspection records |
| What are the ply and gauge? | They decide weight, feel and cost | Clear specs matched to each style |
| Can I see pilling and shrinkage results? | Evidence reduces risk | Shared test reports on a finished swatch |
| Where does the fibre come from? | Traceability protects your brand | Named regions and documents |
A general question list. Adapt it to your own style and market.
How Ruhrose Helps With Knitwear and Fibre Choices
Ruhrose develops jersey, fleece, denim and woven casualwear with production in Bangladesh and buyer support in the UK. If you are weighing cashmere against other fibres, we can help you compare options on a swatch and decide whether another construction suits your range. We do not publish prices or minimums here, because they depend on fabric and quantity. To start a conversation, visit Ruhrose and tell us about your project.