Fabric Width and Cuttable Width: The Difference
Fabric width is the width of a roll of fabric as quoted by the mill or supplier. Cuttable width is the part of that width that can actually be used for cutting garment pieces. The two are never the same. The edges of a roll, called the selvedges, are not suitable for cutting, because they are finished differently and may have holes from the stenter pins that held the fabric during finishing. Some fabrics also have shading or distortion near the edge.
The gap matters because fabric cost and consumption are calculated from the width you can use. If a quote assumes the full width but the cuttable width is smaller, the real consumption will be higher than quoted, and the extra cost lands somewhere, often on you. Understanding cuttable width helps you check that a quotation is based on reality.
For the layout step that uses this width, see our guide to marker efficiency in a garment cutting room.
Why Cuttable Width Is Smaller Than the Quoted Width
Several things reduce the usable width. Selvedges are the finished edges of woven fabric. On knit fabric the edges are often distorted by the stenter, and a strip along each side may be unusable. A fabric that is slightly narrower at one end of the roll or that varies in width along its length reduces the safe cutting width to the narrowest point. Some fabrics have printed or woven edge markings, such as the mill name, that are not wanted on a garment.
The amount lost is small in percentage terms but adds up across a large order. A difference of a few centimetres on a fabric about 150 centimetres wide can change how many pieces fit across the marker. That can in turn change the length of fabric needed per garment. Mills and factories usually state a cuttable or usable width in the fabric specification, and you should ask for it.
What reduces the usable width of fabric
| Cause | What happens | What to ask |
|---|---|---|
| Selvedges on woven fabric | Finished edges cannot be cut into pieces | Usable width after selvedges |
| Stenter pin marks on knit | Edge strips have holes or distortion | Cuttable width after edge loss |
| Width variation along the roll | Safe width is the narrowest point | Minimum width across the lot |
| Edge markings or printing | Mill marks must be avoided | Position of any markings |
| Shading near the edge | Edge colour may differ from the centre | Shade tolerance across the width |
A general guide to common causes, not an exhaustive list.
Open Width and Tubular Knit Fabric
Knit fabric, such as jersey, is made on circular knitting machines that produce it as a tube. The tube can be slit open and used as open-width fabric, which is then a flat sheet of a given width. Or it can be left as a tube, called tubular fabric, which is used to make garments with no side seams or to reduce cutting waste on certain styles. The two forms have different usable widths and different cutting methods.
Open-width fabric is more flexible for marker planning, because pieces can be arranged across the full width. Tubular fabric is cut with the fold in mind, so pieces are placed to suit the circumference, and the fold line limits the layout. Tubular is often chosen for simple tees because it can be efficient and reduces side seams, but it limits sizes and shapes. Ask your factory which form your fabric is supplied in, and how that affects the consumption in your quote. See our jersey fabric guide for the fabric types.
Open-width vs tubular knit fabric
Open width
- Open width: flexible marker layout across the full width
- Open width: suits many pattern shapes and sizes
- Open width: no centre crease to cut around
Tubular
- Tubular: can reduce side seams and speed up simple tees
- Tubular: efficient when the tube fits the pattern width
- Tubular: fold line and fixed circumference limit the layout
A general comparison. Which is better depends on the style, sizes and the fabric available.
A Worked Example: Usable Width as a Share of the Roll
The example below uses placeholder numbers to show the arithmetic. They are not typical for any fabric and should not be copied. Suppose a mill quotes a fabric at 150 centimetres wide, and the factory finds that 2 centimetres on each side cannot be used because of edge distortion. The cuttable width is then 146 centimetres, which is about 97.3 per cent of the quoted width.
Worked example of cuttable width (placeholder figures)
| Item | Value | How it is found |
|---|---|---|
| Quoted fabric width | 150 cm | Stated by the mill |
| Edge loss on each side | 2 cm | Found by the factory on inspection |
| Total edge loss | 4 cm | 2 plus 2 |
| Cuttable width | 146 cm | 150 minus 4 |
| Usable share of the roll | 97.3 per cent | 146 divided by 150 |
Illustrative arithmetic: 150 - 4 = 146, and 146 / 150 = 0.973. Placeholder figures, not an industry average.
Quoted width in the example: usable and lost
Worked example
- Cuttable width97.3%
- Edge loss2.7%
From the worked example: 146 of 150 centimetres is cuttable, and 4 centimetres is lost at the edges. A teaching illustration, not a benchmark.
How Cuttable Width Changes Consumption and Cost
Consumption is the length or weight of fabric needed for each garment. If the cuttable width is smaller than assumed, fewer pieces fit across the marker, and the length per garment increases. The change is not always proportional. Pattern pieces are lumpy shapes, and a small loss of width can drop a piece out of one row and force it into the next, which makes a larger difference than the percentage alone suggests.
Cost follows consumption. If fabric is bought by length, a longer marker means more metres per garment. If it is bought by weight, more usable fabric per garment still means more kilograms. Our fabric consumption calculator shows how the numbers combine, and the fabric kg to metres calculator converts between weight and length for knit fabric.
How strongly each width issue tends to affect consumption
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Effect on length per garment | Easy to spot in a quote | Under your control | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Edge loss larger than assumed | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Narrower fabric than the pattern was planned for | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Tubular instead of open width | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Width varying along the roll | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on common cutting-room experience, not measured results.
Fabric Width, Weight and Length: Keeping the Units Straight
Fabric is described using several measurements, and confusion between them causes quoting errors. Width is the measure across the roll, usually in centimetres or inches. Length is the measure along the roll, in metres or yards. Weight per area is GSM, grams per square metre. Weight per length depends on width and GSM together, which is why two fabrics of the same GSM but different widths weigh different amounts per metre.
When a supplier quotes by kilograms, you can convert to metres if you know the width and GSM, and when they quote by metres, you can work out kilograms. Our fabric GSM guide explains weight, and the yards to metres fabric calculator helps if a supplier uses imperial measurements. Always confirm the unit and the width in writing.
Fabric measurements and what they describe
| Measurement | Describes | Typical unit |
|---|---|---|
| Width | Across the roll | Centimetres or inches |
| Cuttable width | Usable part of the width | Centimetres or inches |
| Length | Along the roll | Metres or yards |
| GSM | Weight per area | Grams per square metre |
| Weight per metre | Depends on width and GSM | Grams or kilograms per metre |
A general reference. Confirm units in every quote.
What to Ask a Supplier About Fabric Width
The right questions prevent most width problems. Ask for the cuttable width as well as the quoted width, and ask whether the figure is a minimum or an average. Ask if the width varies between lots, and whether you will receive open-width or tubular fabric. If you are comparing two fabrics, compare cuttable widths, not quoted widths.
Fabric width checklist
- What is the quoted width, and what is the cuttable width?
- Is the cuttable width a minimum across the roll or an average?
- Does the width vary between dye lots or production batches?
- Is the fabric open width or tubular, and which suits my style?
- Which width was assumed in the consumption figure in my quote?
- How will a different width change the consumption and cost?
- Are edge markings or selvedge features positioned away from cut pieces?
- Is the width stated in the fabric specification and confirmed in writing?
A general list. Add anything specific to your fabric.
How Width Interacts With Pattern and Size Range
The pattern and the size range decide how well a given width suits a style. A large size has wider pieces, and a width that works for small sizes may not fit large pieces side by side. That is why markers often mix sizes, so that small pieces fill gaps beside large ones. A change in size ratio can therefore change consumption even when the fabric stays the same.
When you design a style, ask the pattern maker whether the pieces suit the fabric width you plan to use. A small change, such as splitting a wide piece or adjusting an angle, can allow another piece to fit in a row and save fabric. Our guide to clothing manufacturing cost shows where fabric sits in the overall cost, and the garment bill of materials guide shows where consumption is recorded.
Checking width before you commit to a fabric
- 1Get both widthsQuoted width and cuttable width in writing
- 2Check the patternConfirm that pieces suit the cuttable width
- 3Ask for consumptionRequest a figure based on that width
- 4Compare fabricsUse cuttable width, not quoted width
- 5Confirm in bulkCheck that bulk rolls match the specification
A simplified sequence. Factories may add their own steps.
How Ruhrose Handles Fabric Width in Quotes
Ruhrose develops hoodies, fleece, jersey, denim and woven casualwear with production in Bangladesh and UK buyer support. We confirm the fabric width and the cuttable width assumed in your quote, explain how consumption was worked out and flag what could change it. We do not publish prices or minimums here, because they depend on the fabric and quantity. The ISO and ASTM International publish standards for textile testing and terminology. To discuss a fabric, visit Ruhrose and send us your specification.