What Is Jersey Fabric?
Jersey fabric is a weft-knitted fabric, which means one continuous yarn is looped sideways across the width of the cloth, row after row, with each loop pulled through the one before it. Because loops can open and close, jersey stretches in both directions and recovers well, and it drapes softly over the body. That is why jersey fabric is the default choice for t-shirts, polo bases, joggers, dresses, loungewear and underwear.
The name once described a specific knitted wool garment, but today it covers a family of fabrics. What they share is the structure: a plain knit with a smooth face and a slightly rougher back. Everything else, including feel, stretch, price and behaviour in the wash, depends on the yarn, the machine gauge, the weight and the finishing.
The rest of this guide covers the types, the weight bands buyers use, the faults to plan for, and the order of steps from yarn to cut-and-sew. If you are comparing knits more broadly, our guide to sweatshirt fabric and knit fabric types sets jersey beside rib, fleece and terry.
How Jersey Is Knitted: Face, Back and Gauge
On a circular knitting machine, needles arranged in a cylinder pull yarn into loops and the fabric comes off as a tube. On the face, the loops show as small vertical V shapes. On the back, the same loops show as rows of small arcs. That difference between face and back is the defining feature of single jersey, and it explains why the edges of the fabric roll toward the back when it is cut.
Machine gauge, meaning the number of needles in a given width, works together with yarn thickness. A fine gauge with a fine yarn gives a light, smooth, close fabric. A coarse gauge with a thick yarn gives an open, heavier one. Stitch length matters just as much: a tighter stitch gives a denser, more stable fabric that shrinks less, while a looser stitch gives a softer but less stable one.
Knitters supply jersey in two forms. Tubular fabric comes off the machine as a tube and is sold flat-folded, which can leave a fold line down each side; open-width fabric is slit and finished flat, with no fold line, and is often easier to cut efficiently. Ask which form your factory is buying, because it changes marker layout and waste.
Single Jersey vs Double Jersey (Interlock)
Single jersey is made on one set of needles, so it has one face and one back. Double jersey is made on two sets of needles and builds two layers into one fabric. The best-known double jersey is interlock, which looks identical on both sides, is smoother, and lies flat when cut. Interlock costs more per metre because it is slower to knit and uses more yarn for the same width.
Jersey types compared
| Type | Structure | Handfeel | Behaviour | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Single jersey | One needle bed; face and back differ | Light, soft, flexible | Edges curl; stretches freely | T-shirts, vests, dresses, base layers |
| Interlock | Two interlocked layers; both sides alike | Smooth, fuller, more stable | Lies flat; resists curling and laddering | Polos, premium tees, tailored knit tops |
| Cotton-elastane jersey | Single jersey with elastane in the yarn or plated in | Soft with stretch and recovery | Holds shape; needs care in heat-setting | Fitted tees, leggings, bodycon dresses |
| Slub jersey | Yarn with deliberate thick and thin sections | Textured, casual, often lighter | Uneven surface; hides small flaws | Fashion tees, loungewear |
| Viscose or modal jersey | Regenerated cellulose yarn in a jersey knit | Very soft, fluid, cool | Drapes well; can shrink and bag | Dresses, loungewear, premium basics |
| Poly-cotton jersey | Cotton blended with polyester in the yarn | Firmer, a little less soft | Less shrinkage; dries faster | Uniform tees, promotional wear |
General characteristics of each jersey type. Yarn quality, gauge and finishing change any single row.
For a deeper look at the cellulosic options, see our guide to modal fabric, which also covers viscose.
Yarn Choices: Carded, Combed, Ring-Spun and Slub
The yarn is where most of the quality of cotton jersey fabric is decided. Carded yarn is cleaned and aligned once, so it keeps shorter fibres and has a slightly hairier surface. Combed yarn goes through an extra step that removes short fibres, giving a smoother, stronger, more even yarn. Ring-spun yarn is twisted continuously on a ring frame and tends to be softer and finer than open-end yarn, which is spun faster in a rotor and is more economical but a little coarser.
Combed ring-spun cotton is the usual premium choice for t-shirt jersey because it feels softer and pills less. We explain the difference in detail in our guide to ring-spun vs combed cotton. Yarn count, written for example as 30s or 24s, describes thickness: a higher number means a finer yarn and, at the same gauge, a lighter and smoother jersey.
- Carded open-end: economical, slightly rougher, common in promotional and value tees.
- Combed ring-spun: smoother and stronger, the usual choice where handfeel is a selling point.
- Slub yarn: deliberately uneven thickness for a casual, textured surface.
- Elastane blend: a small proportion of elastane gives stretch recovery; keep the share low for casual tees and higher only for fitted styles.
Jersey GSM: Typical Weight Bands by Use
Jersey GSM tells you how much fabric sits in a square metre, and it is the quickest proxy for how a garment will feel, hang and wear. Lighter jersey drapes and breathes; heavier jersey is more opaque, holds its shape and feels premium. The bands below are typical ranges used in the trade, not rules, and the same GSM can feel quite different depending on yarn and finish.
Typical jersey GSM by use
Grams per square metre
Typical ranges, varies by product, yarn and factory. Always confirm the target weight and a tolerance with your supplier.
Specify a target GSM and an agreed tolerance rather than a single figure, because finished weight shifts slightly with relaxation and washing. Our fabric GSM guide for t-shirts and hoodies explains how to compare quotes at the same weight.
Properties Compared: How Jersey Types Perform
Ratings help when you are choosing between constructions before you order swatches. The matrix below scores four common jersey fabric options on the properties buyers raise most often. It is a way to frame a conversation with your factory, not a test result.
Jersey options at a glance
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Single jersey | Interlock | Cotton-elastane | Poly-cotton | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Softness | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Stretch and recovery | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Dimensional stability | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Resistance to curling | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Opacity at similar weight | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Drying speed | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on typical fabric/process characteristics, not laboratory results.
The pattern is consistent: single jersey is light and soft but curls and shrinks more; interlock is more stable and opaque; elastane adds recovery; polyester in the blend adds stability and speeds drying at some cost to softness.
Common Jersey Problems: Curling, Twisting, Shrinkage and Pilling
Most jersey complaints trace back to a handful of faults, and each one can be planned for in the spec. Knowing the cause lets you ask the right question before bulk rather than after delivery.
Jersey faults, causes and what to specify
| Problem | What you see | Likely cause | What to ask for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Curling edges | Cut edges roll toward the back | Natural tension of single jersey | Allow for it in cutting; consider interlock; sew hems with a suitable machine |
| Torque or spirality | Side seams twist around the body after washing | Yarn twist and knitting tension | Request a spirality limit after washing; ask about compacting and relaxation |
| Shrinkage | Length shortens, width changes in wash | Fabric relaxed incompletely | Set a shrinkage target and test method; pre-shrink or compact the fabric |
| Pilling | Small balls form on the surface | Short fibres and abrasion | Combed yarn; request a pilling test grade |
| Bagging and loss of shape | Knees, elbows or hems stay stretched | Low recovery or low elastane | Check recovery on swatch; consider an elastane blend |
| Barre or streaks | Visible horizontal lines | Yarn variation between lots or dyeing | Use yarn from one lot; approve a lab dip and bulk dye lot |
Typical faults and fixes in knit fabric production. Severity depends on the yarn, machine and finishing.
Torque is the one buyers meet most often without a name for it. A side seam that creeps toward the front after washing usually means the spirality was not controlled. Standard tests such as the ISO 16322 series for spirality, along with dimensional change and pilling methods, are covered in our garment testing guide.
From Yarn to Cut-and-Sew: The Jersey Production Path
Understanding the order of operations explains where problems can enter and where you can intervene. Knit jersey for a t-shirt moves through a short, consistent sequence before it ever reaches a cutting table.
Jersey fabric production path
- 1Choose the yarnFibre, count, spinning method and any elastane.
- 2Knit the fabricGauge, stitch length and width are set on the circular machine.
- 3Dye and finishScouring, dyeing, softening and, where specified, brushing or enzyme finishing.
- 4Relax and compactThe fabric is relaxed and stabilised to control shrinkage and spirality.
- 5Inspect and cutFabric is checked, rolled out to rest, then cut on a marker.
- 6Sew and finishCut pieces are joined with overlock and coverstitch, then labelled and packed.
Simplified sequence. Individual factories may combine or reorder steps.
Resting the fabric before cutting is worth mentioning to any factory, because freshly relaxed jersey keeps moving. Hems and seams then decide how the garment finishes, using coverstitch and overlock machines on most knits.
Where Jersey Fabric Is Used
The same basic structure serves a wide range of garments, and the right type shifts as the garment changes. Where print and decoration are planned, thinking about the end product first usually narrows the options quickly.
- T-shirts: single jersey in combed cotton is standard; heavier jersey suits boxy and oversized shapes.
- Polos: interlock or a textured knit such as pique holds the collar and placket better than light single jersey.
- Joggers and loungewear: jersey, French terry or fleece, depending on warmth; see our French terry guide.
- Dresses and fitted tops: viscose or elastane jersey for drape and stretch.
- Indigo-dyed knits: jersey can be dyed with denim-style indigo; see indigo jersey fabric.
How to Specify Jersey Fabric for Production
A short, complete spec stops a supplier from guessing. The checklist below lists what to put in your tech pack or fabric brief for any jersey fabric order.
Jersey fabric spec checklist
- Fibre composition, stated as percentages, including any elastane
- Yarn type and count, for example combed ring-spun 30s, or ask the factory to propose
- Target GSM and tolerance, and whether weight is stated before or after washing
- Fabric form: tubular or open-width, and finished width
- Finish: enzyme, silicone-softened, brushed, compacted, or none
- Shrinkage target in length and width, with the test method and wash conditions
- Spirality limit after washing and a pilling grade target
- Colour approval route: lab dip, then bulk dye lot approval
- Care label wash temperature to match the testing conditions
Adapt the targets to your product and price. Ask your factory which tests it can run in-house or through a lab.
Request a generous cut swatch of the exact fabric and wash it at home using your intended care instructions before you commit. Measure it before and after; it is one of the cheapest checks a buyer can run.
How Ruhrose Approaches Jersey Fabric
Ruhrose develops jersey garments, including t-shirts, polos and joggers, alongside hoodies, denim and woven casualwear, with production in Bangladesh and UK buyer support. We start from the garment, the feel you want and your price point, propose a yarn, composition and weight, and sample before bulk. Our jersey wholesale buying guide covers the commercial side of the same decision.