What Is Pique Fabric?
Pique fabric is a knitted or woven cloth with a raised, geometric surface texture. In clothing, the term almost always means the knitted version: a fabric with a fine, regular pattern of small raised shapes on the face and a flatter, smoother reverse. It is the traditional fabric of the polo shirt, and it is the reason a polo looks and feels different from a plain jersey t-shirt even when both are made from cotton.
The texture is created by the way the loops are formed, not by printing or embossing, so it stays in the fabric through washing. That structure adds thickness and surface area, which helps pique breathe and hold its shape around a collar. It also changes how the fabric reacts to embroidery, printing and pressing, which matters when you plan a branded polo.
The tiles above give the headline. The sections that follow break it into types, weights and the practical choices that decide how a polo wears and looks.
How Pique Fabric Is Made
Pique fabric is a weft knit made on circular machines, and the texture comes from a controlled pattern of knit and tuck stitches. A tuck stitch holds a loop for an extra course before releasing it, which pulls the surface into tiny raised shapes. The repeat is small and regular, so the effect reads as a fine waffle or honeycomb texture rather than a large pattern.
Compared with plain single jersey, the structure uses more yarn per square metre and tends to be firmer and slightly thicker at the same yarn size. For the plain version of the knit family, see our jersey fabric guide.
From yarn to polo pique
- 1Choose the yarnCotton, cotton-polyester or polyester, in the yarn count that sets weight and feel.
- 2Knit the structureA circular machine knits and tucks to form the textured surface.
- 3Dye and finishScouring, dyeing, softening and heat-setting where blends are used.
- 4Relax and inspectCompacting and checks for width, weight and defects.
- 5Cut and sewPanels are cut, collars attached and the polo is assembled.
A simplified sequence. Mills vary in finishing steps and order.
Types of Pique Fabric: Single, Double and Birdseye
Pique is not one fabric but a family. The names are used loosely, so treat the table as a guide to what suppliers usually mean and confirm every term against a swatch. The key practical differences are thickness, stability and how clearly the texture shows.
Common types of pique fabric
| Type | Description | Typical feel and use |
|---|---|---|
| Single pique | One layer of knit with a small tuck pattern | Lighter, more flexible, classic polo handfeel |
| Double pique | Two layers knitted together, giving a flatter outside and a firmer body | Heavier, more stable, a smoother surface that suits embroidery |
| Birdseye pique | Fine pattern of tiny raised dots | Smoother, lighter, often used in performance-style polos |
| Mesh-style pique | Open, hole-like texture that increases airflow | Warm-weather and sport-style polos |
| Lightly brushed or soft pique | Surface finished for extra softness | Premium casual polos |
General descriptions. Names vary between mills, so confirm with a swatch and weight.
Single pique is the common starting point for a classic polo. Double pique tends to feel more substantial and keeps its shape, which is useful for uniforms and for brands wanting a firmer look. The texture is also a visual signature, so a change of type changes the look of your garment. Ask for swatches of two types side by side, and look at them at arm’s length as well as close up, because the pattern that looks distinct on a swatch can look much subtler on a finished polo.
Pique Fabric GSM: Typical Weight Bands
Pique fabric is quoted in GSM, grams per square metre. Because the texture adds bulk, a pique of a given GSM can feel slightly different from a jersey of the same weight. The chart shows typical bands; mills and finishes vary, so use it to frame a conversation, not to set a final specification.
Typical pique fabric weights
Typical, varies by product and factory
Indicative typical ranges. Match the weight of a polo you like and confirm it on a sample.
Our fabric GSM guide explains how weight is measured and how to compare it fairly. As a rule, a lighter pique suits hot climates and sports-style polos, while a mid to heavier pique suits corporate uniforms that must stay presentable after many washes.
Fibre Options: Cotton, Cotton-Polyester and Polyester Pique
The fibre decides comfort, durability, shrinkage and care. Cotton pique is soft and breathable, polyester pique is strong and quick drying, and blends sit between them. The right choice depends on who will wear the polo and how often it will be washed.
Common pique compositions
| Composition | Character | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Soft, breathable, shrinks more if not treated | Premium casual polos |
| Cotton-polyester | Better shape retention and less shrinkage | Uniforms and everyday polos |
| Polyester | Quick drying, strong, less soft | Sport and performance-style polos |
| Cotton with elastane | Gentle stretch and comfort | Fitted polos |
| Cotton with modal or viscose | Smoother, drapey hand | Soft-touch fashion polos |
CVC denotes a cotton-rich blend. Compositions vary by mill and order.
For a detailed look at the trade-offs, read our cotton vs polyester guide. Technical sportswear that relies on engineered moisture management sits outside Ruhrose’s core range; for that, see the sportswear manufacturer guide and look for a specialist performance supplier.
Pique Fabric vs Jersey vs Performance Mesh
Pique fabric is often compared with plain jersey and with the engineered mesh knits used in sportswear. The table below sets out how the three differ in practice. It is a general comparison; real fabrics vary within each type.
Pique, jersey and performance mesh compared
| Factor | Pique | Plain jersey | Performance mesh |
|---|---|---|---|
| Surface | Raised, textured | Smooth, flat | Open, perforated |
| Structure | Firmer, holds collars well | Soft, drapey | Light, technical |
| Breathability | Good | Good in cotton | Very high in mesh sections |
| Embroidery | Needs topping or stabiliser | Simple | Needs care to avoid puckering |
| Typical product | Polo shirts | T-shirts | Sports tops and polos |
General characteristics, not laboratory results.
Indicative ratings for typical constructions
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Pique | Jersey | Mesh | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shape retention | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Softness | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Breathability | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Collar support | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Wrinkle resistance | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on typical fabric/process characteristics, not laboratory results.
The pattern is clear: pique trades some softness for structure, which is exactly what a collar and placket need. That is why polos almost always use it, and why a polo cut from plain jersey is a different product.
Why Polo Shirts Use Pique Fabric
A polo has more structure than a t-shirt: a collar, a placket with buttons, and often a logo at the chest. Pique fabric suits that structure for several reasons. It is firm enough to support a collar that stands without excessive interlining. Its texture hides small surface marks and light creasing. And its slight air gap against the skin improves comfort in warm conditions.
Pique is also part of the look. The textured surface reads as smart-casual and slightly sporty, which suits corporate, hospitality and golf-style uses. For a view of how uniform programmes are specified, see our corporate clothing and workwear guide.
Embroidery and Printing on Pique Fabric
The raised texture that gives pique its character also affects decoration. Stitches can sink between the raised shapes, so fine lines and small text may lose definition. Embroiderers often use a water-soluble topping on the surface to hold stitches on top of the texture, and a backing underneath to stabilise the knit. Stitch count, density and font size all need testing on the actual fabric rather than assumed from jersey.
Printing on pique can look uneven for the same reason, so fine halftones and small details are better placed on flatter fabrics. Bold simple artwork usually reproduces more cleanly. For a full walkthrough, see our polo shirt embroidery guide, and always request a sew-out sample on your own fabric before approving a design.
Ask the embroiderer to sew your logo onto the exact pique fabric, collar side and chest, before bulk. A good result on a jersey test patch does not guarantee a good result on pique.
Shrinkage, Snagging and Care
Cotton pique can shrink and twist in the first washes if the fabric was not relaxed properly in finishing. The texture also catches on rough surfaces, so snagging is a known risk. Both are testable. Ask for shrinkage results in length and width after washing, a pilling test and a snagging assessment appropriate to the use of the garment.
Our garment testing guide lists the standard tests to request. For care, washing inside out at moderate temperatures, avoiding high heat in the dryer and not ironing directly over embroidery help the polo keep its shape. Collars need particular attention because they can curl or distort if the interlining is not matched to the fabric. Knitted collars should be tested for recovery after stretching, since a collar that goes wavy after a few washes is the most visible failure on a polo. Ask the factory to show a washed sample, not only a new one.
How to Specify Pique Fabric for a Polo
A clear brief for pique fabric saves rounds of sampling. Combine a reference polo with numbers, and record what you approve so bulk matches it.
Pique fabric specification checklist
- Type of pique: single, double, birdseye or mesh-style, with a swatch
- Composition with exact fibre percentages and any elastane
- Weight in GSM with tolerance
- Yarn type: combed or carded cotton, or polyester yarn type
- Finish: enzyme, softener, anti-pilling or plain
- Colour, dye method and fastness requirements
- Shrinkage target after washing in length and width
- Collar and cuff trims: knit collar, rib or self fabric, with weights
- Embroidery or print method and a sew-out sample requirement
- Care label wording confirmed after testing
Record the approved sample numbers and carry them into bulk unchanged.
Treat the collar and cuffs as part of the fabric brief. Mismatched trim shade or weight is one of the most common reasons a polo looks cheap, even when the body fabric is good.
How Ruhrose Approaches Pique Fabric
Polo shirts in cotton or cotton-blend pique sit within the jersey range Ruhrose develops for UK buyers, with production in Bangladesh. We sample the fabric and the finished polo, including the collar and any embroidery, before bulk, and we agree weight, shrinkage and pilling expectations in advance. Engineered performance polos using technical mesh are outside our core range, so we will say so early if your brief needs one.