What Is French Terry Fabric?
French terry fabric is a knitted fabric with a flat, smooth face and a back made of small, soft loops. The loops are formed by an extra yarn that is knitted into the fabric and left uncut. Because the face looks like plain jersey, a French terry sweatshirt can be worn as a clean, simple layer, while the looped reverse gives the fabric body, absorbency and a slightly cool, dry feel against the skin.
The name is a trade term rather than a regulated standard, so two suppliers can use it for slightly different fabrics. In practice, when a buyer asks for French terry fabric they usually mean a medium-weight cotton or cotton-blend knit with unbrushed loops inside. It sits between jersey and brushed fleece: heavier and more structured than a t-shirt fabric, lighter and less insulating than a fleece-backed one.
The four tiles above describe the defining features. The rest of this guide explains how each one affects design, sewing, care and sourcing decisions.
How French Terry Is Built: Face, Loops and Ground Yarn
A typical French terry fabric uses two or three yarns working together. A face yarn creates the smooth outer surface. A ground yarn holds the structure together. A loop yarn, sometimes the same yarn as the ground, is pulled into long loops on the back. The loop yarn is often a little heavier or softer than the face yarn, which is one reason the inside of the fabric feels different from the outside.
Loop length matters. Longer, looser loops make a spongier, bulkier fabric that holds more air and feels cosier, but they also snag more easily and can be harder to print and finish. Tighter loops make a flatter, cleaner fabric that is easier to cut and sew. Mills describe this with terms such as loop height or loop density; your factory can usually show you two or three variants as swatches.
French terry construction at a glance
| Element | What it does | What to specify or ask |
|---|---|---|
| Face yarn | Forms the smooth outer surface that is printed or embroidered | Cotton type, yarn count, combed or carded, any slub |
| Ground yarn | Holds the knit together and controls stability | Fibre content and whether it carries elastane |
| Loop yarn | Creates the looped reverse and much of the weight | Yarn count, loop size and whether it is a different fibre |
| Back finish | Left looped, lightly brushed or fully brushed | Looped (unbrushed), light brush, or move to fleece |
| Face finish | Bio-polish, enzyme wash or plain | Whether you want a cleaner, low-pilling face |
General construction elements of loopback knits. Exact structures vary by mill and machine gauge.
Once the loops are brushed or raised, the fabric becomes a fleece-backed knit. That is a different product with different warmth, which is why it is worth being precise about the back finish in any brief.
French Terry vs Fleece: Where the Line Falls
The difference between French terry and fleece is the back of the fabric. French terry leaves the loops intact. Fleece, in its common brushed form, raises those loops into a soft pile with a fleece-backed finish. That one process step changes warmth, weight, drape and how the fabric reacts to washing.
French terry fabric vs brushed fleece
| Factor | French terry | Brushed fleece |
|---|---|---|
| Back of fabric | Small looped surface, visible on close inspection | Raised soft pile with no visible loops |
| Warmth | Moderate; suits mild weather and layering | Higher; traps more air for cold weather |
| Breathability | Good, especially in cotton | Lower, as the pile holds heat |
| Typical weight | Light to mid-heavy | Mid to heavy |
| Look of the garment | Cleaner and more structured | Softer, fuller and more padded |
| Lint and fluff | Lower in the first washes | Higher in the first washes as loose fibre sheds |
| Typical garments | Lightweight hoodies, shorts, joggers, crew sweats | Winter hoodies, tracksuits, zip-ups |
General behaviour. A heavyweight loopback can feel warmer than a thin fleece, so compare at equal weight.
For a full view of fleece types and weights, read our fleece fabric guide. For the broader knit family that includes both, see sweatshirt fabric and knit fabric types.
French Terry GSM: Typical Weight Bands by Garment
Weight is expressed in GSM, or grams per square metre. French terry fabric spans a wide range, and the weight you pick decides whether a garment feels like a light summer layer or a substantial everyday hoodie. The chart shows typical bands; actual products overlap and vary by mill, yarn and finish.
Typical French terry GSM by garment
Typical, varies by product and factory
Illustrative typical ranges, not specifications. Measure a reference garment you like and match its weight.
Weight is not the same as quality. A well-made 240 GSM fabric from good yarn can outperform a rough 300 GSM one, and heavier fabric costs more to buy, sew and ship. Our fabric GSM guide explains how weight is measured and how to compare it fairly across suppliers.
A practical rule is to choose the lightest fabric that still holds its shape. Shorts and summer joggers rarely need more than a light to mid weight. A hoodie with a double-layer hood and a printed front usually needs more body so the hood stands and the print sits flat.
Fibre Options: Cotton, CVC, Poly-Cotton and Stretch
Most French terry fabric is made from cotton, but the fibre mix changes comfort, shrinkage, price and printing behaviour. Pure cotton is the softest and most breathable choice. Adding polyester reduces shrinkage and speeds drying, and adding a small amount of elastane improves recovery for fitted joggers and cuffs.
Common French terry compositions
| Composition | Character | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton (all cotton) | Softest, most breathable; shrinks most if not pre-treated | Premium hoodies and sweatshirts |
| CVC (cotton-rich blend) | Cotton feel with better shape retention and less shrinkage | Everyday hoodies and joggers |
| Poly-cotton (polyester-rich) | Durable and quick drying; less soft | Uniform and team wear |
| Cotton with elastane | Gentle stretch and better recovery | Fitted joggers, cuffs, slim sweats |
| Cotton with viscose or modal | Drapey, smoother handfeel | Relaxed loungewear |
CVC stands for chief value cotton, a blend in which cotton is the majority fibre.
The cotton and polyester trade-offs are covered in our cotton vs polyester guide. For printing, remember that a polyester-rich loopback can cause dye migration into some inks, so tell your printer the exact composition before testing.
How French Terry Fabric Compares With Jersey, Fleece and Waffle
The easiest way to place French terry fabric is against the knits it is most often confused with or substituted for. The matrix below uses a simple one-to-five scale to show relative character. It is indicative only and describes typical constructions, not lab results.
Typical knits compared
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| French terry | Brushed fleece | Single jersey | Waffle | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Warmth | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Breathability | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Structure and body | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Softness inside | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Print friendliness (face) | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Pilling risk if poorly made | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on typical fabric/process characteristics, not laboratory results.
Single jersey is lighter and flatter, so it is the usual choice for t-shirts; read our jersey fabric guide for the details. Waffle has a raised grid texture and is more of a design feature than a general-purpose sweatshirt fabric. French terry fabric is the middle ground when you want structure and breathability without full fleece warmth.
Best Garments for French Terry Fabric
French terry fabric suits garments that need body and comfort without bulk. The most common uses are hoodies and sweatshirts for spring, autumn and indoor wear, shorts and joggers, and matching loungewear sets. It also works for zip-up jackets, track tops and relaxed co-ords.
Garment fit guide
| Garment | Typical weight band | Design notes |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight hoodie | Light to mid | Single or double-layer hood; check hood shape holds |
| Sweatshirt | Mid | Clean face suits small prints and embroidery |
| Joggers | Light to mid-heavy | Add elastane or a rib waistband for recovery; consider a drawcord |
| Shorts | Light to mid | Hems need a stable finish; watch curling at the leg opening |
| Loungewear sets | Light | Matching dye lots matter across pieces |
Typical starting points, to be confirmed against a sample.
For hoodies, our guide to custom hoodie manufacturing covers the construction decisions that sit alongside fabric choice.
Pilling, Shrinkage and Other Issues to Control
Most problems with French terry fabric are predictable and can be tested before bulk. The big three are pilling, shrinkage and loop snagging. Each is influenced by yarn quality, knit tightness and finishing, so they are specification points, not luck.
What to know before you order
Strengths
- Breathable and comfortable across a wide temperature range
- Clean, printable face with a soft back
- Washes well when pre-shrunk and finished properly
- Stable enough to cut and sew efficiently in mid weights
Watch points
- Can shrink in length if not relaxed and pre-treated
- Loops can snag on rough surfaces or jewellery
- Face can pill if the yarn is short-staple or loosely knitted
- Less warm than fleece in winter
General behaviour; individual fabrics vary.
Controlling shrinkage
Knitted fabrics relax when washed, and cotton in particular can shrink more in length than in width. Ask the mill or factory how the fabric is finished and request a wash test on the actual fabric. Our garment testing guide lists the tests to request. Cutting patterns should allow for the agreed shrinkage figure rather than hoping for the best.
Controlling pilling
Pilling comes from loose short fibres balling on the surface. Combed yarn, tighter knitting and a bio-polish finish all reduce it, and a pilling test such as a Martindale or similar rub test gives you a number to agree rather than a feeling. Blends that include polyester can hold pills longer once they form, so a lower-pilling spec is especially useful there.
How to Specify French Terry Fabric for a Factory
A good brief for French terry fabric leaves little room for interpretation. Start with the garment, then describe the fabric in terms the mill can quote and the factory can sample. A reference garment or swatch removes most of the ambiguity, but numbers still protect you when bulk arrives.
French terry spec checklist
- Composition, for example cotton, CVC or poly-cotton, with any elastane stated
- Weight in GSM, plus an acceptable tolerance
- Back finish: looped (unbrushed), lightly brushed or fully brushed
- Yarn type: combed or carded, ring-spun or open-end, slub or plain
- Face finish: bio-polish, enzyme wash or plain
- Dyeing method and colour fastness requirements
- Shrinkage target in length and width after wash
- Pilling grade target and the test method
- Hand-feel reference: a swatch or reference garment
- Rib and trim yarns that match the body fabric in shade and weight
Agree the numbers on the sample and carry them into the bulk order.
From brief to approved fabric
- 1Choose a referencePick a garment or swatch whose weight and feel you like.
- 2Request swatchesAsk for two or three loop and weight options.
- 3Wash testWash a swatch and check shrinkage, twisting and pilling.
- 4Make a sampleCut and sew the actual garment, including print or embroidery.
- 5Lock the specRecord the approved GSM, finish and tolerances for bulk.
Do not skip the wash test; a French terry sample that looks perfect off the table can behave differently after laundering.
Rib and trims deserve the same attention as the body fabric. Cuffs and hems that are looser, tighter or a different shade can make an otherwise good garment look cheap, so ask for the trims on the sample from the start.
Because French terry has no single regulated definition, always define it in your spec by weight, composition and back finish rather than relying on the name.
Care, Sustainability and Handling Notes
French terry fabric is generally easy to care for, but gentle habits protect the face and the loops. Washing inside out at moderate temperatures reduces face wear, and avoiding high heat in the dryer reduces shrinkage and loop distortion. Care labels should reflect what your wash tests actually showed, not a default instruction copied from another garment.
On sustainability, the fibre and the finishing decide more than the structure itself. Cotton has agricultural impacts, polyester has fossil and microfibre-shedding concerns, and blends are harder to recycle. Certifications such as GOTS, OEKO-TEX Standard 100 and the Global Recycled Standard cover different things, so ask which one applies to which stage and verify the scope. Durability is part of the answer: a loopback that keeps its shape and does not pill is worn for longer.
How Ruhrose Approaches French Terry Fabric
French terry fabric is squarely within Ruhrose’s core range: we develop hoodies, joggers, shorts and sweatshirts for UK buyers, with development and production in Bangladesh. We start from your reference garment or target weight, sample the fabric and the finished garment, and agree shrinkage and pilling expectations before bulk. If you are comparing it with a heavier option, ask us to show both. Our hem and seam guide is a good companion for shorts and cuffs.