What Is Gore-Tex?
What is Gore-Tex? It is a brand name for a family of waterproof, breathable membranes made by W. L. Gore and Associates. The membrane is a thin plastic film with microscopic pores, small enough to block liquid water droplets but large enough to let water vapour from the body escape. It is laminated between layers of fabric to make jackets, trousers, gloves and footwear.
Gore-Tex is a licensed brand. Garments sold under the name must meet the brand's own tests and are made by approved partners. For buyers, that means you cannot simply write Gore-Tex into a factory brief and expect it to be supplied by any factory. The more useful skill is to understand waterproof breathable fabrics in general, so you can compare branded and unbranded options clearly.
For related outerwear knowledge, see our guides to jacket manufacturing and types of jackets.
How Waterproof Breathable Fabrics Work
Waterproof breathable fabrics use one of two main systems. A microporous membrane has billions of tiny holes that block liquid water but pass vapour. A hydrophilic membrane has no holes and moves moisture through the film by chemical attraction. Some products combine both. Each system has strengths in different weather and activity levels.
A separate water-repellent finish, called DWR, is applied to the outer face so water beads and runs off. Without it, the face fabric soaks up water and the membrane stops breathing well. DWR wears off with use and washing and needs reapplication. Regulation of the chemistry used in some water-repellent finishes is tightening in many markets, so ask suppliers whether the finish is free of PFAS and what evidence they hold.
Main waterproof fabric constructions and what a buyer should check
| Construction | How it works | What a buyer should check |
|---|---|---|
| Branded membrane laminate | Licensed membrane bonded to outer fabric | Licence terms, approved factories and testing |
| Unbranded membrane laminate | Generic membrane bonded to outer fabric | Membrane type, ratings and test reports |
| Polyurethane coated fabric | Coating applied to the back of fabric | Coating thickness, ratings and wear |
| Hydrophobic woven fabric | Dense weave with water-repellent finish | DWR durability and wind resistance |
| Laminated shell with insulation | Membrane plus insulation layer | Weight, breathability and bulk |
| Wax or oil treated cotton | Traditional treated cloth | Care, odour and heavy weight |
A general reference. Always confirm exact construction and performance with a supplier test report.
Layers: 2L, 2.5L and 3L
Waterproof fabrics are described by layer count. A two-layer fabric bonds the membrane to the outer fabric and uses a loose lining inside. A two-and-a-half layer fabric adds a thin printed or sprayed protective layer inside instead of a full lining. A three-layer fabric bonds the outer fabric, membrane and inner fabric together into one stiff, durable cloth.
Each option changes weight, feel, cost and durability. Three-layer constructions suit hard-use mountain jackets, while two-layer constructions suit lifestyle rainwear with a comfortable lining. The lining and shell can be different colours and finishes, and the garment pattern should allow for the extra stiffness of laminates. Our guide to ripstop fabric explains a common outer fabric choice.
How common layer constructions tend to behave
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Durability | Lightness | Comfort feel | Pack size | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 layer with lining | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| 2.5 layer | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| 3 layer | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Coated nylon | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Waxed cotton | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on how each construction usually behaves, not laboratory results.
Reading Waterproof and Breathability Ratings
Waterproofness is usually measured by hydrostatic head, in millimetres of water column the fabric can resist before leaking. Breathability is measured by moisture vapour transmission rate, in grams of vapour per square metre per day. Both are test results under defined conditions, so compare only figures from the same test method.
Numbers need context. A high rating does not guarantee a dry wearer if seams leak, zips are unprotected or the face fabric wets out. Test methods published by bodies such as ISO and AATCC provide standard ways to measure water resistance. Our guide to garment testing shows how test reports are used in buying decisions.
Typical waterproof rating by use, in millimetres of water column (illustrative ranges)
Hydrostatic head, new fabric
Illustrative ranges for explanation only. Real performance depends on test method, aging and construction, so rely on supplier test reports.
Seam Taping, Zips and Construction
A waterproof fabric is only waterproof if its seams are sealed. Needle holes along seams let water in, so seams on waterproof garments are covered with waterproof tape applied with heat. Taping needs special machines, correct tape width and well-matched fabric, and poor taping is a common cause of leaks.
Zips, pockets, hoods and cuffs need attention too. Water-resistant zips with covering flaps, adjustable hoods and storm cuffs all add cost and complexity. Specify each detail in the tech pack, and ask the factory how seams will be tested. Our guide to sportswear and activewear manufacturing covers related technical-product skills.
A route for developing a waterproof jacket
- 1Define the useWeather, activity and price point agreed
- 2Choose the fabricLaminate, ratings and finish selected
- 3Plan seams and detailsTaping, zips and hood designed
- 4Make and test a sampleSpray, wear and wash tests completed
- 5Approve for bulkStandard signed with allowed variation
A simplified sequence. Branded membranes follow the owner's own approval route.
Licensing, Alternatives and Cost
Using a branded membrane involves licence terms, approved suppliers and strict testing. This protects performance but limits supplier choice and adds cost. Some brands accept this for the marketing value, while others choose unbranded laminates that deliver similar performance at a lower price. The right decision depends on your customer and your price point.
Alternatives include other membrane makers, polyurethane coatings and tightly woven showerproof fabrics. Compare them on test data and not only on marketing. Cost depends on layer count, membrane type, seam taping and finishing. Treat any cost split as an illustration and not a benchmark, and ask suppliers to show how changes would affect price.
Where cost tends to sit in a typical waterproof jacket (worked example)
Worked example, not an industry average
- Laminated shell fabric38%
- Lining and insulation10%
- Zips, trims and hardware14%
- Cut, make and seam taping30%
- Testing and packing8%
An illustrative split for explanation only. Real cost depends on membrane, construction, factory and quantity, so use it as a prompt for questions and not as a benchmark.
Care, Durability and Environmental Questions
Waterproof garments need care. Dirt and body oils reduce water repellence and breathability, so regular washing with a suitable cleaner helps. The DWR finish usually needs reactivation with heat or reapplication after several washes. Care labels should reflect these steps, and should be tested on the finished sample.
Environmental questions are growing. Fluorinated finishes have been scrutinised for persistence in the environment, and many brands now ask for PFAS-free alternatives. Laminates can be harder to recycle because they combine different materials. Ask suppliers for chemical compliance documents, and consider certification such as OEKO-TEX for tested textiles. Our guide to sustainable fabrics helps compare options fairly.
What to confirm before ordering waterproof garments
- Fabric construction and layer count written on the spec
- Hydrostatic head and breathability results with test method
- DWR type and evidence of PFAS status
- Seam taping method and tape width
- Zip type and water protection
- Wash and wear test results on a finished sample
- Care label wording tested on a sample
- Licence terms if a branded membrane is used
A general checklist. Add anything your retailer or market requires.
A Practical Example: Choosing a Shell for a Commuter Jacket
Imagine a brand designing a commuter jacket for city riders. The customer needs reliable rain protection, some breathability for pedalling and a clean look. A two-layer laminate with a polyester face and a light lining fits the brief. A three-layer fabric would give more durability but cost more and feel stiff. A coated nylon would be cheaper but breathe less.
The brand collects three swatches, sprays them, wears them under a shower and compares drying times. It decides on a two-layer unbranded laminate and writes a clear spec for seam taping and DWR. When customers ask what is Gore-Tex and whether the jacket uses it, the product page explains the actual membrane used and its test results, so the claim stays accurate.
Keeping this record helps with reorders and new colours. Note the supplier, fabric, ratings, seam taping method and test results in one document. When something changes, such as a new membrane batch or a different tape, you can compare it directly with the approved standard.
Questions to Ask a Waterproof Fabric Supplier
Ask the supplier to define the product: membrane type, layers, face fabric, finish and weight. Ask for test reports with the method named, and ask what happens to performance after repeated washing. Clear answers show the supplier controls its process.
Ask also who tapes the seams, what tests the factory runs on finished garments and how failures are handled. Waterproof garments leak at the weakest point, so factory capability matters as much as fabric quality.
Branded membrane vs unbranded laminate for outerwear
Strengths
- Branded: strong customer recognition and trust
- Branded: tested system with controlled supply
- Unbranded: lower cost and wider supplier choice
- Unbranded: freedom to design your own spec
Limits
- Branded: licence terms and higher cost
- Branded: limited factory choices
- Unbranded: performance varies by supplier
- Unbranded: you must prove your claims
A general comparison. The right choice depends on brand story, price point and customer.
Questions that help you judge a waterproof fabric supplier
| Question | Why it matters | A good answer sounds like |
|---|---|---|
| What membrane and layer construction is used? | Names alone are vague | Written spec with a matching swatch |
| Which test methods and results do you have? | Ratings need context | Reports naming the method and sample age |
| How durable is the water-repellent finish? | DWR fades with use | Wash test data and care advice |
| Who tapes seams and how is it tested? | Leaks occur at seams | Defined process and leak testing on garments |
| What is the PFAS status of the finish? | Regulation is changing | Documents describing the finish chemistry |
A general question list. Adapt it to your own product and market.
How Ruhrose Approaches Technical Outerwear Briefs
Ruhrose develops jersey, fleece, denim and woven casualwear with production in Bangladesh and buyer support in the UK. For showerproof and water-resistant casualwear jackets we can help you compare shell fabrics and plan tests. For fully taped technical laminates or licensed membranes, we are open about whether a specialist outerwear factory is the better fit. We do not publish prices or minimums here, because they depend on fabric and quantity. To start a conversation, visit Ruhrose and tell us about your product.