What Is Velvet Fabric?
Velvet fabric is a woven cloth with a short, dense, upright pile on one face. The pile is made of yarn loops that are cut, so the surface is a field of tiny fibre ends rather than the loops you see in terry. Because those ends stand up and catch the light at an angle, velvet looks deeper and richer in colour from one direction than the other, and the surface changes in tone as the cloth moves.
In everyday use the word velvet is stretched to cover several pile fabrics. A technical buyer separates them by how the pile is made and whether the base is woven or knitted, because that decides stretch, weight, cutting rules and cost. The cloths most often confused with velvet are velveteen, velour and corduroy.
The sections that follow explain the main pile structures, the fibres used, typical weights, and the practical rules for cutting, sewing, pressing and care. They also say where velvet and velour sit against the products Ruhrose normally develops.
Velvet vs Velveteen vs Velour vs Corduroy
The easiest way to separate pile fabrics is to ask two questions: is the base woven or knitted, and where does the pile come from? Velvet traditionally uses warp yarns for the pile and is made by weaving two layers face to face and cutting them apart, or by looping pile yarns over wires on the loom. Velveteen uses weft yarns for the pile and is typically cotton. Velour is a knitted cloth with a pile on one face, so it stretches. Corduroy is also a weft pile cloth, but the pile is cut into ridges called wales; our corduroy fabric guide covers it in detail.
Pile fabrics compared
| Fabric | Base | Pile source | Stretch | Typical garments |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Velvet | Woven | Warp yarn, cut | Little, unless elastane is added | Dresses, jackets, evening wear, trims |
| Velveteen | Woven | Weft yarn, cut, usually cotton | Little | Jackets, trousers, skirts, accessories |
| Velour | Knit | Knit pile, sheared | Good, in at least one direction | Tracksuits, loungewear, dresses |
| Corduroy | Woven | Weft yarn, cut into ridges | Little, unless elastane is added | Trousers, jackets, shirts |
| Fleece | Knit | Brushed (raised) surface, not cut pile | Moderate | Hoodies, jackets, linings |
General definitions. Mills may combine structures or use their own names, so confirm the construction from a swatch.
Velour is closest to the products brands usually ask about. A velour tracksuit shares its sizing and construction with jersey and fleece, and our tracksuit and joggers manufacturer guide covers the shape and fit side.
Fibres Used in Velvet and Velour
The fibre gives velvet its handle, its lustre and its price. Silk velvet is the classic luxury version, with deep colour and a fine, fluid drape. Viscose and rayon velvets approach it at a lower cost, with a soft hand but a tendency to crush and mark when wet. Cotton velvet and velveteen have a matte, dense look and handle more like a traditional workwear cloth. Polyester velvet is the most common modern version: it holds colour well, is strong, and can be crushed or embossed.
Many commercial velvets use a blend or a laminated base. Some use a polyester or cotton backing under a viscose or silk pile, which affects how the cloth drapes and how the pile is held. Always ask what the pile and the ground are made of, because a fabric labelled simply as velvet can hide a very different construction behind the label.
How the main fibres compare for pile fabrics
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Silk | Viscose | Cotton | Polyester | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Depth of colour and lustre | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Softness | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Crush resistance | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Strength and wear | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Ease of care | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on typical fabric/process characteristics, not laboratory results.
Polyester velours are especially common in tracksuits and loungewear because they colour well and keep their shape. For more on that fibre, see our polyester fabric guide.
Weights and Finishes
Velvet and velour weights run heavier than simple shirting because of the extra yarn in the pile. The ranges below are typical bands for apparel, quoted in grams per square metre (GSM). Always measure the actual cloth, because pile length and density change the feel at the same weight.
Typical weight bands
Typical, varies by product and factory. Upholstery cloths are listed only for comparison; they are not generally used for garments.
Finishes change the surface. Crushed velvet is twisted or pressed to create an irregular, shimmering pattern. Panne velvet has the pile pressed flat in one direction for a high sheen. Stretch velvet adds elastane for comfort and recovery. Burnout and devore effects remove part of the pile to leave a pattern, and stonewashed or piece-dyed versions give a softer, aged look.
Pile Direction and Why It Matters
Pile direction is the single most important rule in working with velvet fabric. The pile leans slightly in one direction, so a garment cut with some pieces running up and others running down will show two different shades, even though it is one cloth. The difference is permanent and cannot be steamed out. Plan for it from the pattern stage.
Choose pile up for deeper, richer colour or pile down for a lighter, silvery look, and apply that choice to every piece, including linings, facings, pockets and trims that are meant to match. Write the direction on the pattern and in the tech pack.
A one-way layout needs more fabric than a two-way layout because pieces cannot be turned to nest efficiently. Ask the factory to confirm consumption with the nap rule applied before you sign off a cost, and do not assume that a plain-fabric figure will carry over. The same rule applies to velour, even though its knit structure hides shading a little better.
Cutting, Sewing and Pressing Velvet
Velvet is demanding to handle, and the problems appear as visible faults rather than hidden ones. The pile pushes the layers sideways as they feed through the machine, a fault called creep. Needle holes can leave marks, and pressing the wrong way flattens the pile for good. A factory used to pile fabrics will have its own methods, but the points below are worth confirming.
Handling velvet in production
- 1Relax and inspectLay the cloth out, check for shading, marks and pile flaws, and mark them before cutting.
- 2Cut with the nap ruleOne-way layout, sharp tools, and careful marking on the reverse side.
- 3Sew with controlFine, sharp needle, suitable presser foot, hand basting or clips to limit creep, and a stitch length that suits the pile.
- 4Seam and finishChoose seam finishes that do not add bulk, and avoid heavy topstitching on soft pile.
- 5Press from the backPress on the reverse over a pile-friendly surface, with light steam and no direct pressure on the face.
Stretch velour needs the same care as other knits: ballpoint needles, suitable stitches, and seams that stretch with the cloth. Our jersey fabric guide covers the knit-side rules that carry over. Zips, drawcords and trims should be tested on the swatch because pile can catch in teeth and make closures stiff.
Care, Wear and Common Faults
Velvet fabric looks best when it is cared for gently, and the care label should be set from testing rather than from assumptions about the fibre. Silk and viscose velvets are often dry clean only. Cotton and polyester versions may be machine washable at low temperature, turned inside out. Polyester velour is usually the easiest to launder.
Common velvet and velour faults
| Fault | Cause | How to reduce it |
|---|---|---|
| Shading between pieces | Pile cut in different directions or different dye lots | Cut one way, keep all pieces from one lot |
| Crushing and marking | Pressure, folding or water on delicate pile | Hang for storage, press from the back, test water marks on a swatch |
| Pile shedding | Weak pile anchoring or heavy abrasion | Test a swatch for pile loss and abrasion; ask for a sample wash |
| Seam creep | Pile layers shifting under the foot | Clips, basting, suitable foot and needle |
| Rub marks and bald patches | Friction at elbows, seat and straps | Choose heavier, denser pile for high-wear areas |
| Colour transfer | Dye rubbing onto other garments | Check colour fastness to rubbing and washing |
General guidance. The right fix depends on the fibre, the pile structure and the garment.
Useful test families for pile cloth include colour fastness to washing and rubbing in the ISO 105 series, abrasion and pilling tests, and dimensional change after laundering. Our garment testing guide explains how to request them.
Sustainability Notes for Velvet and Velour
There is no simple verdict on the environmental profile of velvet. The impact depends on the fibre, the dyeing route, the amount of cloth used, and how long the garment is worn. Polyester velvet is fossil-based and can shed fibres in washing, though recycled polyester options exist and need documentation such as Global Recycled Standard certificates if the claim matters. Viscose-based velvets depend on how wood pulp is sourced and processed, so ask about FSC or PEFC chain-of-custody evidence. Cotton velvet depends on how the cotton is grown.
For a brand, the practical approach is to ask for documents rather than accept general green wording, choose a cloth that suits the garment's expected life, and avoid blending fibres without a reason. Our sustainable fabrics guide shows how to read claims carefully.
How to Specify and Sample Velvet Fabric
A velvet or velour brief should name the structure as well as the fibre. Without it, a supplier may quote a very different cloth from the one in your head. Request swatches in the actual colour, because pile cloth photographs poorly and colour reads differently from different angles.
What to check on a velvet or velour swatch
- Structure named: velvet, velveteen, velour or other, woven or knit.
- Fibre content of pile and base, with weight in GSM.
- Pile direction decided and written on the pattern and tech pack.
- Handfeel against the skin and under a hand stroked both ways.
- Colour viewed at several angles and in daylight.
- Washed swatch measured for shrinkage and checked for pile loss and crushing.
- Rubbing fastness checked, especially on dark colours.
- Stretch and recovery for velour, tested in both directions.
Use as a prompt list for a swatch review with your factory or a test house.
Cost is driven by the fibre, the pile density, the finish, and the fabric consumption caused by the one-way layout. Prices move with the market, so ask for a current quote on the exact cloth rather than relying on estimates. Our satin fabric guide is a useful comparison if you are weighing a velvet look against a smoother, shinier cloth.
How Ruhrose Approaches Velvet and Velour
Ruhrose develops hoodies, jersey, denim and woven casualwear for UK buyers, with production in Bangladesh. Velour jersey tracksuits and velvet-look trims can be discussed case by case as part of a jersey or loungewear range, and any fabric is sampled and approved before bulk. Woven silk velvet, evening wear and tailored velvet pieces are outside our core, and a specialist maker is the better route. For a related range question, see our loungewear manufacturing guide.