What to Know Before Briefing a Fleece Jacket Manufacturer
A fleece jacket is made from a soft, insulating knit fabric with a brushed or pile surface that traps air and keeps the wearer warm. It is lighter than a padded or woven jacket, easy to care for and quick to dry. It is a staple for outdoor, sportswear and corporate ranges, and it is a natural companion to hoodies and sweatshirts in a casual collection.
When you approach a fleece jacket manufacturer, the points that most affect the result are the fabric type and weight, the zip and pocket construction, the collar and hem finishes and the surface finish. Fleece also has a particular weakness, pilling, in which small fibre balls form on the surface. Good specification and fabric choice reduce it, and it is worth planning from the start.
For a deeper look at the fabric, read our fleece fabric guide, and for the jacket category as a whole see the jacket manufacturer guide.
Fleece Fabric Types: Polar, Micro and Sherpa
Polar fleece is the classic: a knit fabric brushed on one or both sides to give a soft pile. It is warm, light and widely used for jackets. Micro fleece is thinner and lighter, used for base layers, linings and lightweight jackets. Sherpa fleece has a woolly, curly pile on one side, often paired with a flat knit on the other, and gives a heavier, cosy look. Some jackets use bonded or lined constructions with a different fabric outside.
Weight in GSM sets the warmth and bulk. A heavier fleece is warmer and more structured, and a lighter one is easier to layer. Our guides to polar fleece vs sherpa and to choosing between 320, 400 and 450 GSM fleece go deeper on weights. Always ask for a swatch and compare hand feel and recovery. A reliable fleece jacket manufacturer will send swatches of two or three weights so you can compare them side by side.
Fleece fabric types for jackets
| Type | Feel and look | Typical use | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polar fleece | Soft pile, light, warm | Everyday and outdoor jackets | Pilling and static |
| Micro fleece | Thin, light, smooth | Layering pieces and linings | Less warmth, can feel thin |
| Sherpa fleece | Woolly, curly pile, cosy | Heritage and casual styles | Bulk and shedding at seams |
| Bonded fleece | Fleece joined to another fabric | Softshell-style jackets | Layers separating if poorly bonded |
A general guide. Names and constructions vary between mills, so approve a swatch.
Zips, Collars and Front Closure
A fleece jacket normally has a full-length front zip. The zip type matters: a coil zip is flexible and suits fleece, a moulded plastic zip is strong and sporty and a metal zip gives a heavier look. Zip length, tape colour, puller style and the zip garage at the neck are all details to specify. Because fleece is soft and thick, the zip needs good support behind it, usually a placket or a stabilising tape.
The collar can be a stand collar, which stands up around the neck, or a lay-flat collar. A stand collar is common because it adds warmth, and it is often lined with a smoother fabric, so the zip does not catch the chin. Our guide to the zip hoodie manufacturer explains related zip and placket details. Test the zip on a sample, and wash it, to confirm it still runs smoothly. Ask each fleece jacket manufacturer which zip suppliers they use and whether a wash test is part of their routine.
Coil zip vs moulded plastic zip on a fleece jacket
Coil zip
- Coil: flexible and light, suited to soft fleece
- Coil: widely available and easy to colour match
- Coil: lower cost
Moulded plastic zip
- Moulded plastic: strong, sporty look with larger teeth
- Moulded plastic: good for outdoor and workwear styles
- Moulded plastic: stiffer and heavier, may feel bulky
A general comparison. Choose by look, use and budget, and test on a sample.
Pockets, Hem and Cuff Finishes
Pockets on a fleece jacket are usually side pockets set into the seam or on the body, plus sometimes a chest pocket. Zipped pockets are popular because they keep belongings secure. The pocket bag, the inner fabric, is often a lighter knit to reduce bulk. Reinforcements at pocket corners prevent tearing, especially with heavier use.
Hem and cuff finishes decide how the jacket sits and how it handles wear. Common options include a plain hem with binding, a bound edge using a strip of fabric, elastic cuffs, rib cuffs or a drawcord hem. Binding gives a neat, durable edge. Drawcord hems allow adjustment but need a channel and cord ends. Each adds a part and a step, so list them in the bill of materials. A fleece jacket manufacturer can only price and sample a finish that is written down clearly.
How the common finishes tend to behave
1 dot = low, 5 dots = high
| Neat finish | Warmth | Durability | Adds cost | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bound edge | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Rib cuff | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Elastic hem | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Drawcord hem | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
| Plain overlocked edge | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● | ●●●●● |
Indicative ratings based on typical behaviour, not measured results.
Pilling and Surface Quality in Fleece
Pilling is the formation of small balls of fibre on the surface of a fabric, caused by friction that tangles loose fibres. Fleece is prone to it because of its brushed surface, which has many loose fibre ends. Pilling looks untidy and can make a new jacket look old, so it is a common cause of complaints. The risk depends on the fibre, the yarn, the knit and the finishing, and it is worth discussing with the fabric supplier.
Anti-pill finishes and better yarns reduce pilling, and testing a fabric for pilling resistance gives you data before you commit. Our guide to fabric pilling causes and prevention explains the factors, and the ISO and AATCC publish test methods for pilling. Ask for a pilling test result for the fabric, and for the grade you require, not only a promise that it is anti-pill.
Illustrative split of what affects pilling in a fleece jacket
Placeholder split, not data
- Fibre and yarn quality35%
- Fabric finish30%
- Knit construction20%
- Wear and care15%
An illustration with placeholder percentages to show that several factors combine. It is not measured data and does not describe a specific fabric.
How a Fleece Jacket Moves from Brief to Bulk
A fleece jacket has fewer parts than a woven shirt but more risk in the fabric. The sampling path should test the fabric behaviour as well as the fit. Start with swatches, then a first sample, a wash and pilling check, a fit review and a pre-production approval. Write comments at every stage so changes are not lost between rounds, and keep the approved sample as the reference for bulk.
Development path for a fleece jacket
- 1Brief and swatchesShare a reference garment and compare fabric weights
- 2First sampleCheck zip, collar, pockets and hem finish
- 3Wash and pilling checkTest shrinkage, hand feel and pilling grade
- 4Fit reviewTry it over a typical base layer and write comments
- 5Pre-production approvalLock trims, labels and packing before bulk
A simplified method. Stages vary by factory and style.
Recycled Polyester and Sustainability Claims
Many fleece jackets are made from polyester, and some use recycled polyester, often made from post-consumer plastic bottles or other waste. A recycled claim should be backed by evidence, such as a certificate from a recognised scheme, and the claim you make must match what the certificate covers. Organisations such as Textile Exchange publish standards for recycled content, and a supplier should be able to show documents for the specific fabric lot.
Fleece also sheds microfibres when washed, an environmental concern that some brands address through fabric choice and care guidance. Our guide on how to verify sustainability claims before approving a supplier shows how to check evidence before you put a claim on a label or website.
Specification Checklist for a Fleece Jacket
A clear specification makes the first sample far more likely to match your intent. Include the fabric, weight, zip, pockets, collar, finishes and the surface requirements, such as pilling resistance. The checklist below is a starting list to share with any fleece jacket manufacturer you brief.
Fleece jacket specification checklist
- Fabric type, weight in GSM, composition and finish
- Pilling resistance requirement and test method
- Zip type, length, colour, puller and zip garage
- Collar type, height and lining
- Pocket type, size, position and bag fabric
- Hem and cuff finish: binding, rib, elastic or drawcord
- Measurements for each size with tolerances
- Labels, care instructions, packing method and any recycled claim documents
A general list. Add anything your retailer or channel requires.
Common Fleece Jacket Problems and How to Prevent Them
The problems that appear most on a fleece jacket are predictable. Pilling shows up after wear and washing. Zips that run poorly come from a thick fabric without good support or a zip not matched to the weight. Hems that curl or stretch come from the wrong finish or binding. Static and shedding at cut edges come from loose fibres in the fabric.
Fleece jacket problems and likely causes
| Problem seen | Likely cause | What to specify |
|---|---|---|
| Pilling on the surface | Loose fibres and weak finish | Pilling grade and an anti-pill finish |
| Zip catches or waves | No placket support or wrong zip type | Stabilising tape and zip type |
| Hem curls or stretches | Wrong edge finish | Binding or rib specification |
| Shedding at edges | Loose fibres at cut edges | Edge finishing and fabric brushing |
| Shrinks or loses shape | Fabric not stabilised or washed | Fabric finish and a washed sample |
A general guide to common problems, not an exhaustive list.
For related ranges, see the sportswear manufacturer guide and the corporate clothing and workwear guide, which both rely on fleece.
How Ruhrose Supports Fleece Jacket Development
Ruhrose develops hoodies, fleece, jersey, denim and woven casualwear with production in Bangladesh and UK buyer support. As a fleece jacket manufacturer working with UK brands, we help you choose the fabric and weight, specify zips, pockets and finishes and make a wearable sample before bulk. We do not publish prices or minimums here, because they depend on the fabric and quantity. To discuss your style, visit Ruhrose and send a reference garment or sketch.