400 GSM Hoodie Cost: Why Price per Kilo Is Only the Start
A quotation arrives for a 400 GSM hoodie, the fleece price per kilo looks in line with the costing sheet, and yet the FOB is higher than planned. Where did the difference come from? In almost every case the answer sits in the conversion from kilograms to pieces: how much fleece one hoodie really consumes, what is lost on the way, and which processes are priced per kilo and which per garment. This guide shows how to rebuild the 400 GSM hoodie cost from first principles so that you can question a quote line by line.
By 400 GSM hoodie cost we mean the FOB price (free on board, the supplier cost delivered to the port of loading, before freight, insurance and duty) of one finished hoodie made from a fleece with a finished weight of 400 grams per square metre. It is a build-up, not a single number. Fabric, rib, knitting, dyeing, finishing, cut and make, trims, decoration, wash, packing and factory margin each add a line, and each line depends on assumptions that a quotation rarely states. Everything in the worked example below is hypothetical and labelled as assumed; none of it is a market price, a supplier price or a benchmark.
The figures above come from the worked illustration later in the guide. Read them as a demonstration of method. Your own pattern area, yarn, process route and factory will move every one of them.
What a 400 GSM hoodie cost model must include
A usable model has four parts that map to the four questions buyers ask most often: how many kilograms of body fleece and rib one garment consumes, what knitting, dyeing and finishing add to the fabric price, which non-fabric lines sit on top, and what yield and wastage assumptions connect the net garment to the fabric actually purchased. The sections below take them in that order.
Five-step method for building the cost
- 1Net weightPattern area by component, multiplied by finished GSM, gives net fleece kilograms. Rib is calculated separately.
- 2Gross weightDivide by marker efficiency and add end-of-roll and spreading allowances to reach the kilograms bought.
- 3Fabric price per kiloBuild it from yarn, knitting and dyeing and finishing, including the weight lost at each stage.
- 4Add per-piece linesCut and make, trims, decoration, wash, packing, testing and inland handling to the port.
- 5Overhead and marginApply the factory overhead and margin basis stated in the quotation, then compare with the FOB quoted.
Method only. Every number used in the worked illustration later in this guide is assumed.
Body and Rib Consumption: How Much Fleece Does One Hoodie Use?
Consumption is the weight of fabric one garment needs. For a fleece hoodie it has two components that must never be blended: the body fleece, which makes the front, back, sleeves, hood and pocket, and the rib, a separate stretch knit used for cuffs and hem band. They are knitted on different machines, priced differently and wasted differently, so each gets its own line.
Body fleece: area multiplied by GSM
GSM is grams per square metre of finished fabric. Net body fleece weight in kilograms equals pattern area in square metres multiplied by GSM, divided by 1,000. The pattern area comes from the cutting pieces of the graded size you are costing, usually a medium or the middle of the size run, so ask the factory which size its consumption refers to. If the quoted weight and the area do not reconcile to a plausible pattern, the consumption figure needs explaining.
Illustrative net fleece weight by component (assumed pattern areas)
| Component | Pattern area (m²) | Net weight at 400 GSM (kg) |
|---|---|---|
| Body (front and back panels) | 0.62 | 0.248 |
| Sleeves (two) | 0.40 | 0.160 |
| Hood (two panels) | 0.22 | 0.088 |
| Kangaroo pocket and small parts | 0.11 | 0.044 |
| Total body fleece (net) | 1.35 | 0.540 |
Hypothetical pattern areas for one medium hoodie, assumed for illustration. Real areas depend on block, size, fit and design details such as a lined hood or a double-layer pocket.
The same arithmetic shows why weight changes the bill so directly. With the pattern unchanged, each additional 50 GSM on a 400 GSM base adds a proportional amount of fleece to every garment, a point we return to in the sensitivity section. For the fabric side of that choice see our guide to hoodie fabric GSM, French terry and fleece.
Rib consumption
Rib is stretched in use, so its consumption is best expressed directly in kilograms per garment rather than from a flat pattern area. Cuffs and a hem band dominate; some designs add a neck or hood-edge rib. Ask whether the rib is quoted per kilo of finished rib fabric and whether it contains elastane. In the illustration the cuffs take 0.030 kg and the hem band 0.050 kg, a net 0.080 kg, and an assumed 5% cutting allowance lifts the rib bought to 0.084 kg.
Yield and Wastage: Marker Efficiency, Allowances and Fabric Yield
Net weight is what stays in the garment. Gross weight is what the factory has to buy, and the difference is wastage. Wastage has several sources, and a quotation that states a single consumption figure without separating them is hard to challenge or improve.
- Marker efficiency is the share of the marker area covered by pattern pieces. The rest is the gaps between pieces that cannot be filled. Wider cuttable fabric width, simpler shapes and a flexible size mix help; a brushed fleece with a directional surface or a pronounced shade difference across the width restricts how pieces can be turned.
- End-of-roll and spreading allowance covers the short remnants at the end of each lay, cutting-table losses and re-cuts.
- Fabric faults are cut around or removed; inspection systems such as the four-point method help agree what counts as a fault before it becomes a dispute.
- Shrinkage allowance should sit inside the pattern, not in the consumption figure. If the pattern is drawn on relaxed finished dimensions, the consumption already reflects the fabric that will exist after finishing.
Fabric yield is the useful single KPI that sums these up. We define it here as net fabric weight in the garment divided by the fabric weight issued to cutting, expressed as a percentage. Some factories and buyers define yield on area rather than weight, or exclude the end-of-roll allowance, so always state the definition used.
From net to gross: the fleece conversion in the illustration
| Step | Calculation | Result (kg) |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Net body fleece | 1.35 m² × 400 GSM ÷ 1,000 | 0.540 |
| 2. Marker loss | Net ÷ 0.85 marker efficiency, less net (assumed efficiency) | 0.095 |
| 3. Fleece after marker | 0.540 + 0.095 | 0.635 |
| 4. End-of-roll and spreading | Assumed 2% on the marker figure | 0.013 |
| 5. Gross fleece bought | 0.635 + 0.013 | 0.648 |
| 6. Fabric yield | 0.540 ÷ 0.648 | 83.3% |
Illustrative arithmetic with assumed inputs (85% marker efficiency, 2% allowance). Rounded to three decimals at each step.
Marker efficiency has the most room for debate, because a few points change the kilograms bought for every garment in the order. Ask the factory to show the marker for the costed size and the fabric width it assumes. An efficiency figure no one has measured is a common reason a bulk cost differs from the sampled one.
Knitting, Dyeing and Finishing: Turning Yarn Into 400 GSM Fleece
The fleece price per kilo is itself a build-up. A brushed-back fleece starts as yarn, is knitted into greige fabric, then dyed, brushed and set to the target width and weight. Each stage is normally charged per kilo, and each loses some weight, so the yarn you pay for is more than the finished kilo you receive.
From yarn to finished 400 GSM fleece
- 1YarnFibre blend, yarn count and spinning method set the base cost and the surface. Priced per kilo of yarn.
- 2KnittingThree-thread or similar fleece construction is knitted into greige. Charged per kilo; small yarn losses occur.
- 3DyeingFabric is dyed in the colour required. Charged per kilo; colour depth and minimums affect the rate.
- 4Brushing and finishingRaising the loop side, softening, heat setting and compacting fix the finished GSM and width.
- 5Inspection and rollingFaults are marked and the fabric is checked against GSM and shrinkage specifications before cutting.
A general route for brushed-back cotton-rich fleece. Mills vary in sequence and in how they quote each stage.
Finishing is where the 400 GSM number is actually made. Brushing, relaxing and compacting change the weight and the dimensional stability, which is why a spec should carry both a target GSM and an agreed tolerance, and why weight should be checked on finished fabric rather than greige. Our guide to choosing between 320, 400 and 450 GSM fleece covers the hand-feel side of that trade-off.
Ask on which weight each stage is charged, what loss is assumed at each, and what GSM tolerance and shrinkage standard the price rests on. In the illustration the stages are converted to one price per finished kilo using a weight-retention factor at each stage.
Cut and Make, Trims, Decoration, Wash and Packing
Once the fabric is priced, the garment has to be cut, sewn and finished. These lines are normally priced per piece rather than per kilo, so they do not move with GSM in the same direct way, although heavier fleece can slow sewing and add handling. The split below is the one we use in the illustration; real quotations group lines differently, so ask for the breakdown on the same basis as your costing sheet.
Per-piece cost lines beyond fabric (illustrative, assumed values in USD)
| Line | What it covers | Assumed (USD) |
|---|---|---|
| CM (cut and make) | Spreading, cutting, sewing, pressing and in-line checks | 1.60 |
| Trims | Drawcord, eyelets, labels, hangtag, thread | 0.42 |
| Packing | Polybag, cartons and ticketing share | 0.18 |
| Embroidery (chest logo) | Digitising spread, stitching and backing | 0.45 |
| Garment wash | Softener or enzyme process and handling | 0.30 |
| Testing and QC allowance | In-line and final inspection, lab test share | 0.06 |
| Inland to port | Haulage, export documents and loading | 0.10 |
| Subtotal (non-fabric lines) | Sum of the seven lines above | 3.11 |
All values are assumed for illustration. CM is the cutting and sewing conversion charge; whether packing, wash or testing sit inside CM varies by supplier, so confirm the basis.
CM deserves its own definition because it is the line most often compared across suppliers and the one most often defined differently. We use it for the conversion cost of cutting and sewing the garment, excluding fabric, trims, decoration and wash. The difference between a CM-only price and a full FOB is explained in our guide to CMT versus FOB manufacturing.
Decoration and wash deserve extra attention on a heavy fleece. Embroidery on a thick brushed surface may need backing or a different stitch density, and garment wash can alter the finished measurements and hand-feel. Both therefore belong in the sample that you approve, not just in the cost line.
Worked Illustration: From Kilograms of Fleece to FOB
The walk below is a fully hypothetical model for one medium 400 GSM brushed-back fleece hoodie with a woven drawcord, a kangaroo pocket, a chest embroidery and a light garment wash. Every input is assumed. The prices per kilo are not market prices and are not taken from any supplier. The only purpose is to show the structure and verify the arithmetic.
Assumed inputs for the illustration
| Input | Assumed value | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| Net fleece pattern area | 1.35 m² | Net fleece weight |
| Finished fleece weight | 400 GSM | Net fleece weight |
| Marker efficiency | 85% | Marker loss |
| End-of-roll and spreading allowance | 2% | Gross fleece weight |
| Yarn price | USD 3.40 per kg of yarn | Fleece price per finished kg |
| Knitting loss | 2% of yarn | Yarn kg per finished kg |
| Knitting charge | USD 0.60 per greige kg | Fleece price per finished kg |
| Dyeing and finishing weight loss | 6% of greige weight | Greige kg per finished kg |
| Dyeing and finishing charge | USD 1.50 per greige kg | Fleece price per finished kg |
| Rib | 0.080 kg net, 5% allowance, USD 7.50 per finished kg | Rib cost |
| Per-piece lines | As in the cost-line table above | Non-fabric cost |
| Factory overhead and margin | 10% of the subtotal | FOB |
All inputs are assumptions for illustration only. They are not prices, benchmarks or typical industry values.
Step one converts the yarn-to-fabric route into a price per finished kilo. The yarn kilograms needed for one finished kilo are 1 ÷ (0.98 × 0.94) = 1.0855, and the greige kilograms are 1 ÷ 0.94 = 1.0638, so each stage is charged on more than one kilogram.
Step 1: fleece price per finished kilogram (assumed)
| Stage | Calculation | USD per finished kg |
|---|---|---|
| Yarn | 3.40 × 1.0855 | 3.69 |
| Knitting | 0.60 × 1.0638 | 0.64 |
| Dyeing and finishing | 1.50 × 1.0638 | 1.60 |
| Fleece price per finished kg | Sum of the three stages | 5.93 |
Illustrative arithmetic, each stage rounded to the cent. Not a market price.
Step two multiplies the gross fleece weight by that price per kilo, adds the rib, and then adds every per-piece line. The overhead and margin assumption is applied to the subtotal to reach the FOB.
Step 2: from kilograms to FOB (all values assumed, USD)
| Line | Calculation | USD per hoodie |
|---|---|---|
| Body fleece | 0.648 kg × 5.93 | 3.84 |
| Rib | 0.084 kg × 7.50 | 0.63 |
| Fabric subtotal | 3.84 + 0.63 | 4.47 |
| CM (cut and make) | Assumed | 1.60 |
| Trims and packing | 0.42 + 0.18 | 0.60 |
| Embroidery and wash | 0.45 + 0.30 | 0.75 |
| Testing and inland to port | 0.06 + 0.10 | 0.16 |
| Subtotal before overhead and margin | 4.47 + 3.11 | 7.58 |
| Factory overhead and margin | 10% × 7.58 | 0.76 |
| Illustrative FOB | 7.58 + 0.76 | 8.34 |
Illustrative only. The FOB is the output of assumed inputs, not a quotation, benchmark or Ruhrose price.
Grouped into four blocks, the walk gives the composition below. Fabric is the largest block in this model, but not the only one, so a saving argued only on fleece price per kilo leaves most of the FOB untouched. In this hypothetical case fabric is a little over half of the FOB, make, embroidery and wash are a little over a quarter, and the remainder splits between trims, packing, testing and inland costs on one side and overhead and margin on the other.
Composition of the illustrative FOB
Share of the illustrative USD 8.34 FOB
Illustrative composition calculated from the assumed inputs above. Do not read it as a typical cost split.
How GSM, Marker Efficiency and Yarn Price Move the 400 GSM Hoodie Cost
A cost model earns its place when you change one assumption and see what happens. The table below changes a single input at a time in the same illustrative walk. The GSM rows hold the fabric price per kilo constant, which is a simplification: in practice a heavier or lighter fleece also changes yarn, construction and finishing, so its price per kilo will differ.
One-at-a-time sensitivity of the illustrative walk
| Change (all else equal) | Gross fleece (kg) | Fleece cost (USD) | FOB (USD) | FOB change (USD) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Base case (400 GSM, 85% marker efficiency, assumed yarn price) | 0.648 | 3.84 | 8.34 | 0.00 |
| Marker efficiency 80% instead of 85% | 0.689 | 4.09 | 8.61 | +0.27 |
| Marker efficiency 90% instead of 85% | 0.612 | 3.63 | 8.11 | -0.23 |
| Yarn price 0.50 per kg higher | 0.648 | 4.19 | 8.72 | +0.38 |
| Yarn price 0.50 per kg lower | 0.648 | 3.49 | 7.95 | -0.39 |
| 320 GSM, price per kg held constant | 0.518 | 3.07 | 7.49 | -0.85 |
| 450 GSM, price per kg held constant | 0.730 | 4.33 | 8.88 | +0.54 |
Illustrative only. Built from the assumed inputs in this guide. Price per kilo is held constant in the GSM rows, which real quotations will not do.
Three things stand out. First, weight and price per kilo multiply, so a heavier cloth is expensive twice over if the supplier also asks a higher rate per kilo. Second, marker efficiency and yarn price move the FOB by amounts of similar order, which means a conversation about consumption is often as valuable as a conversation about yarn. Third, the overhead and margin assumption is applied to the subtotal, so any change in the subtotal carries a proportional change in that line too.
If you are using a model like this to chase a saving target, our guide to reducing hoodie FOB cost by 5 per cent applies the same method to named levers and shows how to validate each change with a sample.
KPIs: FOB, Fabric Yield and CM
Three measures keep a hoodie costing conversation precise. Each is defined below with a formula and the value it takes in the illustration, so that the same word means the same thing in the costing sheet, the quotation and the review.
KPIs for 400 GSM hoodie cost
| KPI | Definition and formula | Illustration value | What to watch |
|---|---|---|---|
| FOB | Supplier price for one finished garment delivered to the port of loading and cleared for export. Excludes freight, insurance, duty and import costs. See what FOB price means in clothing manufacturing. | USD 8.34 (assumed) | Confirm what is inside it: packing, testing, wash, decoration, inland charges. Landed cost needs freight, insurance, duty and fees added. |
| Fabric yield | Net fabric weight in the garment divided by fabric weight bought for it, shown as a percentage. State whether the end-of-roll allowance is included and whether weight or area is used. | 83.3% (fleece only, assumed) | Movement between sample costing and bulk costing; marker efficiency and width assumptions. |
| CM | Cut and make: the conversion cost of cutting and sewing one garment, excluding fabric, trims, decoration and wash, unless the quotation says otherwise. | USD 1.60 (assumed) | Whether wash, packing or testing is included; the minutes of sewing and the operations assumed. |
Definitions vary by retailer and supplier. All values in the illustration column are assumed.
Margin sits on top of these. If your costing sheet uses gross margin, remember that it is (selling price excluding VAT minus cost) divided by selling price excluding VAT, while markup is the same difference divided by cost; mixing the two is one of the more expensive spreadsheet errors in a hoodie range.
How to Test a Quotation Against Your 400 GSM Hoodie Cost Model
Once you have a model, it becomes a tool for conversation rather than a verdict. The aim is not to prove the supplier wrong. It is to find which assumption differs from yours and to decide whether the difference is justified. The checklist below turns that into a set of requests you can send with the sample brief.
Questions to answer before accepting a hoodie quotation
- Which size does the consumption figure refer to, and what is the net fleece and rib weight per garment?
- What marker efficiency, fabric width and end-of-roll allowance does the gross figure assume?
- What finished GSM, tolerance and shrinkage standard is the fabric price based on, and is it quoted on finished or greige weight?
- What yarn blend and count, and is the rib quoted separately, with or without elastane?
- Which lines sit inside CM and which are separate: wash, decoration, packing, testing, inland haulage?
- What is the overhead and margin basis, and is it applied to the fabric as well as the make cost?
- What changes the price if the order is split across colours, or if a colour uses a minimum surcharge?
Use the answers to complete your own costing template, then compare with the FOB quoted.
Where several quotes differ, normalise them to the same fabric specification, weight tolerance, wash, decoration and packing before comparing totals. Our guide on how to compare two hoodie suppliers quoting different FOBs develops this into a side-by-side sheet.
Decision: What to Do With the Model
Use the model in three places. At design stage it shows whether a target weight and trim list can fit the target FOB before anyone spends on a sample. At quotation stage it gives you a reasoned list of questions instead of a price argument. At bulk stage it gives you a baseline to compare against, so a change in actual consumption or a late spec change shows up as a variance rather than a surprise.
- Accept a quote when each line reconciles to your model within differences the supplier can explain with a marker, a fabric specification or a process choice, and the sample matches the approved hand-feel and fit.
- Push back when consumption cannot be reconciled to a plausible pattern area, when the price per kilo is on a different weight basis from yours, or when lines are missing that your spec requires.
- Change the specification rather than squeezing the price when the gap is structural: a different weight, rib construction or trim set is often a cleaner way to close it than asking for a lower margin. Our guide to garment value engineering covers how to do it without weakening the product.
Evidence that would change the decision includes a measured marker from the factory that differs from your assumption, a wash-tested sample showing different shrinkage, or a fabric lot where the finished GSM falls outside the agreed tolerance. The KPI to monitor in bulk is the variance between costed and actual fleece kilograms per garment, tracked alongside returns and quality findings so a saving never hides a weaker product.
Every figure in the worked example is hypothetical and labelled as assumed. Replace each input with a verified, dated value from your own supplier discussions before using the model for a real costing decision.
When you rebuild your next hoodie quotation, which single assumption (consumption, price per kilo, or the lines inside CM) do you currently trust least, and what evidence would you need to resolve it?
How Ruhrose Approaches Hoodie Costing
Ruhrose develops hoodies, fleece and jersey for UK buyers with production in Bangladesh, and we treat costing as part of the sampling conversation: we discuss weight, fabric build, trims, decoration and wash against your target, and we sample before any bulk commitment. We do not publish prices or minimums here, because they depend on the specification. If you want to see how that works for a hoodie programme, our custom hoodie manufacturer guide is a sensible next page.